Black Pearls

Well the guy came and I scored a few pearls for my radio.

Laurent had many questions about boats and invited me to help him raise the sunken boat in the pass. It is a French “Toy” (thin fiberglass) boat about 42’ long. He said he would give me some of the equipment (winches, roller furling, etc) if I were to help him. The boat is just under the surface and by getting a big water pump, plugging up all the holes, and un-bolting the keel it would be a relatively easy thing to do. The problem is I don’t have the time. I have a friend coming into Tahiti for my birthday and I need to “beat feet” west as the cyclone clock is ticking.

Once I arrive in Tonga/Fiji I have some decisions to make. The trip South takes me into the southern ocean and can be a rough ride, gales frequent from the west. If I decide to spend the cyclone season in the Solomon/Papua New Guinea area I have malaria to deal with. I guess I will not know until I get there?

I may take off today.

Peace, Love, and Black Pearls.

– Alex

work’n for beer

Alll may not be lost on the computer front. A few people have assured me the damage is probably to my application and operating system. I will have to reinstall windows in Tahiti.

I went to shore last night to do some shopping and met the French guy (franswa) on the boat next to me. We hung out for a while and he introduced me to his friend Laurent who manages a pearl farm here. The big ship from Tahiti was in and they had to load 100 or so 60lb bags of oyster shells into a container. I helped for an hour and was rewarded with beer, I had 4, and at $7.00 each that’s not so bad. Laurent mentioned that he wants to get a VHF radio for the farm. I told him about the one I have with the faulty squelch and he was interested. I told him I’m looking for pearls and he’s coming over this afternoon.

It was blowing 25+ most of the night, I’d like the wind to cool off but if it doesn’t I’ll leave in a few days.

I hope everyone is enjoying the weekend.

Peace, Love, and Coconuts.

– Alex

Heart broken.

Well I figured out how I got the virus. My friend came over a few days ago and gave me some music. The virus jumped over from her ipod. I’ve really been looking for some Simon & Garfunkle, and Cat Stevans, and I was so psyched to get it, but boy do I wish I never plugged that ipod into my computer.

I tried everything I could short of reinstalling windows yesterday. I can’t reinstall windows because I need a connection to verify my registration, I’ll have to wait for Tahiti, but I still can not open my project. Man the project was almost done! It’s my own fault for not having a backup!

If the files are corrupted and I have to start from scratch it will be a while till I release the DVD. If I sit down and work full time I could probably knock it out in 2.5 – 3 months. I’d start now but my visa is up at the end of July and I need to sail west to Tonga and Fiji before getting out of the south Pacific in November for hurricane season. I wish I could take the time now but I certainly don’t want to be around here in hurricane season.

I’ve been kind of stressed for the past few weeks trying to get the DVD done, now I just feel kind of down. I’m really praying that after I reinstall windows I’ll be able to access my project.

Peace, Love, and Coconuts.

– alex

Mortified!!!!

Technology will be the death of me!

I tried opening my project (DVD) in Adobe premiere pro and it wouldn’t open. I battled with it all day yesterday. Today I decided to do a virus scan and my computer came up with an r32/rjump.worm. If I’ve lost my project I don’t know what I’ll do.

Why, Why, why do these people create these viruses. I can totally understand the logic behind it but unless you can come up with a virus to permanently tear down “the system” STOP ANNOYING PEOPLE!!!

I guess I’m just venting, I don’t mean to be so negative but $#!T!!!!! I have a lot of work into it. Backing up is an issue as I need another expensive drive, and even then I’ll be backing up a 220 – 300 gig project.

AAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

I need to kill something, I’m going spear fishing.

War, Hate, and computer viruses

Alex

BTW it’s still blowing like hell.

A dark day!

Without risk there would be no reward and if it was easy everyone would cruise.

Whenever I hear of a boat going down it strikes a somber chord in my heart.

One boat, a Hans Christian, was lost during the Galapagos to Marquesas run this year. The captain and crew were rescued by a nearby freighter. Last night a sailboat went down coming through the cut into the Ahi Atoll. I believe this is a direct result of bad judgment on the part of the captain. One should not enter a tricky and dangerous atoll at night no matter what the sea conditions. Safety is off shore! I don’t know the particulars but I know they were holed in the cut (entering at night) and sank shortly there after. I’m sure he was trying to navigate by his GPS as there was no moon.

I spoke to the local police officer today about my difficult time entering the lagoon. He informed me in such windy conditions the sea pours a lot of extra water into the lagoon and the wind quickly pushes it out “Very dangerous conditions, no slack, your lucky” he informed me.

I’ll be waiting for a good window to exit the lagoon. I’ll be looking for a mid-day hi tide with sunny conditions and no wind.

Anyway, enough of that.

I’m off to go snorkeling.

Peace, Love, and “no holes in da boat mon”

– Alex

Black Pearl

Life has been pretty laid back. I spent the day working on the boat yesterday. It’s been really windy and I’m happy I pulled in here despite all the stress of hitting the reef. The wind charger has been working overtime and I have plenty of power for the computer.

There is a black pearl farm here. I hear you can score black pearls cheep from the farmers, they like rum or whatever for trade. I’ll also get video and photo of the operation.

I’ll be off to Tahiti as soon as the wind cools off and upload pictures.

Cheers everyone.

Peace, Love, and Black Pearls.

– Alex

Damage report.

I haven’t had a drink for a while as I’ve been in my work mode but that all changed last night. I put away a nice cache or rum and I’m pretty hung over.

When I woke up and put all my thoughts together through my rum drinking haze, I remembered…, I hit a reef.

I was pretty apprehensive about getting in the water, I was worried that I did some damage to the rudder or I’d find a major crack in the hull or something. I got on my snorkel gear on and did a damage assessment, it’s pretty bad!

It took me a while to identify exactly where the reef hit, then I saw it, on the bottom of the keel. There are four strips each about an inch long where I’ve lost some bottom paint, that’s it! There’s no fiberglass damage at all, not even a gouge, how can that be? I feel rally stupid making such a big deal about it but it really gave Namaste quite the jolt!

WAHHHHHOOOOOO!!!!!!

This is why I bought a west sail, my girl is tough!

The water is really nice and clear here. I haven’t been in such nice water since the San Blas in the carribean. I’m going to check out the village and decide weather or not I can work here for a week. It would be nice to get some snorkeling done during work breaks.

I LOVE MY BOAT!

Peace, Love, and Westsails baby!!!!

– alex

Coral head!!!

Lat -14.576667
Lon -146.470833

I flipped a coin 5 times this morning trying to decide to go to Tahiti or not, and 5 out of 5 times told me to go to Tahiti, why didn’t I listen to the damn coin?

I’m in a beautiful anchorage; however I almost lost my boat today!

The wind has been screaming and I decided to pull into the Ahi Atoll (Tuamotos).

Pulling into an atoll can be tricky business as currents can easily overpower your boats engine and put you on a reef. I did all the research possible and entered the atoll at exactly 20 minutes before slack tide. I couldn’t see my charts on my navigation computer as my monitor only stays on for a moment before turning off and I couldn’t take my hand off of the helm because of the extreme current.

Once I was in the pass a cloud bank hid the sun from me making visual navigation impossible. I don’t care what the GPS told me it was not slack water. There was a 5 + knot current in the pass that took control of Namaste and pushed her into a reef. I had the throttle as far down as it would go and the helm hard to starboard but she would not respond.

Why was this current here, it should be slack?

Namaste came down hard on a coral head and rolled off to the port side, I managed to get her pointed into the current again and left the reef at a whopping .2 of a knot using full steam. My hands were shaking, and my heart in my throat, I didn’t want to loose my boat. This is the 3rd time I’ve lost control of Namaste. The first was during hurricane Isabel, the second in a 60 knot “Choko Sano” off the coast of Colombia, and now here, It’s a scary feeling.

I haven’t dived to look at damage. I can’t see any water entering the boat and will dive on her tomorrow. The wind is howling from the east and its raining hard. I wish I was at sea and never visited the Ahi Atoll.

I’m a little shook up and going to Contigo for dinner and drinks.

Peace, love, and thank God I still have my boat.

– Alex

Hove-To

Lat -14.330556
Lon -146.214444

The wind really freshened (20-25) yesterday and I spent the whole day trying to slow Namaste down. I took down the main and only flew the smallest scrap of jib. Then I dragged a bucket in the water and I was still doing 3.5 Kts. 20 miles off of Ahi I decided to hive-to. It’s really the first time I’ve done it and I’m quite happy with the results. I’m still on course to my waypoint; however I’m usually doing under a knot, and kind of backwards.

The sea conditions are more bearable with this angle on the seas and I managed a few hours of sleep. I was going to go direct to Tahiti but decided to pull into Ahi and wait for the wind to cool off; I don’t need this for 3 more days.

I’m going to enter the atoll at slack lo-water which is around noon, I’ll be hove-to for the next 5 hours or so.

I can’t wait to take a nice swim and get some rest. My back is really killing me. I often have back pain but try to keep it out of my mind. I had a fusion (L5 S1) years ago and I haven’t been taking care of it. I need to try and do something about my mattress in Tahiti.

Pace, Love, and comfy sleep.

-Alex

Rain, wind, and squalls squalls OH MY!

My 6 th sense is working well.

I think I can smell the squalls coming. I woke up just in time to douse the drifter and rig the boat for a squall. I fixed the drifter with some duct tape. I find that Namaste does best with 2 reefs in the main and a full jib. As soon as I was done rigging the boat and clearing things from the cockpit the rain came.

I’ve got about 100 miles to the Ahi atoll, still don’t know if I’ll stop.

I’m deep into my 1000 page book and have been reading over time, I think I need new glasses.

I get a lot of people who instant message me asking a question and apologizing for taking my time. Please, take my time, that’s what I’m here for. If I can help you get out on your boat and go cruising that is payment enough for me.

A very tired bird came to rest yesterday and spent the night, he really left a mess in the cockpit. I knew he would from where he perched himself (on my outboard), but I didn’t have the heart to push him off.

I’m really enjoying my time on the sea despite all the bird poop.

Peace everyone.

Alex

Night Windz

Lat -12.873889
Lon -144.336389

I was in the cockpit dreaming that I was living back in Santa Barbara last night. My uncle Sasha was with me and helping me prepare for my first day as a school teacher. We looked up in the sky and the eye of a storm was passing over head, we looked at each other and thought it strange, I said “but there has been no wind”.

I woke up to 10 knots and by the time I adjusted to being awake it was blowing 15. I was only flying the drifter and bombing along at 6kts. I could see lighting ahead of me in the distance. I asked Quint (the auto pilot) to bring us 20degrees off the wind which he promptly did. I raised the main with 2 reef points and doused the drifter. I’m always worried about tearing the old black sail in windy conditions. I got it down and on the deck without a problem. As I was putting it back in the bag a small piece of sail caught on a sharp piece of pipe and I heard the rip “$#!T”! I look at it more in detail today and figure out how to fix it.

Namaste and I are sailing along at over 4 knots and will make better time now. We have 150 miles to Ahi and I’ll have to start calculating my time of arrival. I have one shot as I have to enter the atoll at slack hi-tide. If my timing is off and I miss it by a big gap, I’ll continue to Tahiti. All I want now is a quiet place to work on the DVD…, Oh, I got my camera working. I baked it in the sun for a few hours and it came back, it was a moisture problem. I will play with it for the next few days and determine if I should send it in anyway. I’d hate for it not to work from Tahiti to wherever.

Cheers.

Alex

Drifting

Lat -11.416667
Lon -142.777778

Only Gods should live like this.

I’ve always aspired to become the kind of sailor that feels totally comfortable in the sea. The past 30 hours have been windlass, and I’m drifting at 1.5 – 2.0 Kts.

I’m having problems with my monitor again it will only stay on for a few seconds at a time, I will get a new one in Tahiti. I need to find a 12v “car type” monitor.  I’m typing in the dark as the screen only stays lit for 5 seconds at a time; forgive me for type-os. My sat phone is also freak’n again and I’m having another delivered to Tahiti.

I’ve also received word that my favorite camera manufacturer (SONY) will only cover parts and charge me $249.00 for labor. I’m sure they can make the whole camera for less then that. I also need to attend to fixing my radar; I guess I’ll have to drop some coin in Tahiti. It’s a small price to pay for living the life of my dreams.

See you on the “flip side” hope everyone got a chance to sail this weekend.

Cheers.

Alex

Death of an ordinary man!

Lat -11.672222
Lon -143.131667

These are the sailing days I wanted on my crossing. This is the gentile pacific that I’ve imagined in my minds eye.

I sleep outside under a blanket of a million stars. I watch the sun rise on the horizon and set on the horizon each day. I play my guitar. I listen to music, and I read. I spend the majority of the day with a broad smile on my lips, I am happy.

I know I’m getting strange when I’m rocking out to Neal Diamond. I’ve dug out all kinds of old music with the new appearance of an ipod, its fun.

A French patrol boat passed within 5 miles of Namaste today. They hailed me on the radio and asked the normal questions. They were pleasant, unobtrusive and wished me happy travels to Tahiti.

I spent the day rummaging every scrap of sunbrella onboard and tenting the cockpit. The sun is strong; I haven’t seen a drop of rain since Daniel’s bay. It is much cooler now.

I’m trying to assemble a definition of freedom, what does it really mean? If you have a good definition please instant message it to me. I’m reading a fantastic book (Shantaram), by Gregory David Roberts. The main character defines freedom as being able to say “no” whenever you please, I’d like a richer definition but perhaps it’s that simple. I believe I’m free and I’ve escaped the matrix, but have I? I would like to think I have, and feel like the freest man on the earth now. I also read a definition explaining freedom is the ability to want nothing and achieving it. I was looking through the west marine catalogue today and in all 1132 pages only wanted a drill bit that makes wood bungs. I remember the day I wanted 100 things from that catalogue, hummmmmmmmmm?

Anyway I just wanted to post my thoughts.

Peace, Love, and fair seas!

– Alex

Slow going!!

I’ve been a sea 5 days and I’ve only made 266 miles. I guess I’ll shoot for stopping at the Ahi atoll in the Tuamotos, still 266 miles away.

The little wind I had shifted to the ENE around 2am. It blew around 5 knots for a short while and is back down to nothing. I need around 3 knots to keep the drifter inflated. The wind shift really discombobulated everything. I had the drifter poled out with a top and bottom. I also had canvas covering the area where the main sheet travels. After rigging everything again 40 minutes passed, then the wind shifted again and I took everything down once again. I decided to run the motor until the wind made up its mind. The motor is still running 4 hours later but I’m going to kill it soon.

Not much else to report, the sea is beautiful.

I hope for a fish today.

Alex

Wahoooo!

Lat -9.752778
Lon -144.100833

What a glorious day to be alive!

I lost Aki’s lure right off the bat. I caught a large shark that took the lure and three quarters of my line, ARRRGGG!

Yesterday was a wonderful trade wind sailing day, 10-15, and calm seas. The night was equally as nice with a star filled sky and the Southern Cross guiding my way. Not one squall so far, but I’m expecting them.

Just before first light my reel woke me up. I had a nice little Wahoo on the line, it and will have it for lunch and dinner.

The morning is perfect and I’m making way at around 3.5kts, all is quite well.

Cheers everyone.

Peace, love, and Wahoo

Alex

making way for Tahiti

Well I’m off to Tahiti; the trip should take 7, or 8 days.

The sun is rising for me in the Marquises for the last time. It’s been an honor to spend time with these beautiful people in this magical place. This is what Tahiti was like 200 years ago I’m told.

I’m really bummed about my camera, and don’t rally have a choice about the Tuamotos. If I can’t film it, and I can’t spear/eat the reef fish (ciguatera), I might as well get going to the big city. After I get the camera sent off I may jump over to Moorea and hang out to edit. Don’t you feel sorry for me, can you feel my pain? ;-)

I got a really nice Yoghurt culture from Oriana on “Osprey”. I had my first batch for breakfast today, “yummy”. Hopefully I can keep this one alive for a while. I also bought 10 pomplimoose (wonderful citrus fruit) from a local farmer for fresh fruit for the trip. I also have a stalk of Bananas hanging in the cockpit.

I’m excited to use the new lure that Aki gave me; hopefully it will be a tuna killer. I’m going to check ebay when I get back for used reels. Most cruisers don’t use rods and just hose clamp a reel on each side of the boat. My reel is really small and I loose a lot of fish. I need a nice beefy deep sea reel or two for Namaste. If I can find a good deal on one I’m going to get it for my birthday. I’m also going to check for a used Iridium 9505 satellite phone, I’m surprised mine is still working.

I’m going to be saving every penny of the new DVD sales for a new motor. I’d like to go with a Beta Marine (Kubota) and install it in New Zealand or Thailand. I also want to take some time to attend to Namaste. A drawer is broken here, a latch there, and the cabin soul needs mending. If I go to New Zeeland I’m also planning on building a nice nesting, sailing, and rowing dinghy. I’m growing tired of the deflatable story. An inflatable is the most expensive piece of disposable equipment on a sail boat. I need to make a new floor for mine and attend to a leek in Tahiti.

Cheers everyone.

I’m going sailing in the South Pacific.

– Alex

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!

What is it with me and technology lately, is my Saturn in retrograde or something?

My New HDV camera (Sony HDR-HC1) bit the big one. I bought it last July 25th so I think I’m still in luck with the factory warrantee. I can’t finish my DVD without it. It’s eating tape and telling me to reinsert the cassette.

I’m thinking of sailing directly for Tahiti in the morning. I need a phone and FedEx office. I need to get my camera fixed ASAP.

ARRRGGGG!!!!

Cheers.

Peace, Love, and simplicity!

– Alex

burnt out!

I’ve really been putting in the hours. I’ve been in front of the computer for 11-14 hours a day and I’m getting wiped-out.

I’m thinking of wrapping it up for a while and sailing for the Tuamotos day after tomorrow.

Sorry for the lapse in updates but my OCD has been working overtime and the DVD has been my only focus.

My SSB is down along with my radar. This is what I mean about “less being more” now that I have made myself depend on these things I’m stressed when they don’t work. Electronics above an autopilot and depth gauge aren’t mandatory!

Cheers

Have a good weekend.

– Alex

Yuck!!!!

I’ve been an editing machine! The video will be awesome, I’m surprising even myself.

Whenever I go on a crossing, start an editing project, or anything that requires a lot of mental aptitude I quit drinking. I stopped drinking 5 days ago. I also started drinking noni juice in the morning.

As wonderful and delicious as the fruits can be here they can be equally as disgusting.

I discovered the mysterious noni fruit in the San Blas. It smells and tastes like heave and is quite unpleasant. The elders drank it for health but I was never able to choke it down. The noni fruit grows everywhere here and Aki drinks it every day. He gave me a special container (water jug with a tap) and told me to fill it with noni and let it rot. It produces a brownish clear juice that is truly horrible. I’ve been doing a shot in the morning, YUCK!!!!!!!!

I hear the noni is becoming popular in the states and a company is importing it into California.

Back to work.

Peace, Love and YUCK!!!

Working

I’m on fire. I had an awesome work day yesterday and I’m planning to keep it up for a while. I think the next DVD will be quite good and I’m excited to finish it.

A gust of wind rolled down the hill last night that must have exceeded 50 knots. I think something is going on with local weather but I have no access.

I’m going to try and visit shore later and buy fruit from the farmer that lives near by.

Back to work.

Cheers.

Alex

A big scare!

I started working on my DVD bright and early yesterday morning. I had to unpack one of my external hard drives from a pelican case and set it up. I double-clicked on my project and waited for it to open; it usually takes a few minutes as it is quite large. My project wouldn’t open. I spent the next few hours in panic as I have over 150 hours invested in it.

What I really need is another 300GB drive so I can back it up. It this case however it was not a drive failure. I had renamed a photo backup folder and my project was trying to find pictures in it. I don’t remember what the old name was. It threw the whole project for a loop. It took a while but I was able to load the project without my music or sound EFX tracks. I lost 10– 15 hours work, but I cant complain, it could have been much worse.

Aki is sailing for the Tuamotos today. I’ll leave in a week or two depending on how much I accomplish. If I get some good work done I’ll reward myself with a week in the Tuamotos.

Cheers everyone.

Alex

Energy

Lat -9.107222
Lon -140.3725

Some places are just nicer then others, and Daniels Bay is one of those places.

I’m a very sensitive person. In the previous years I’ve become hyper-sensitive to people and places. I don’t surround myself with negative energy and try to follow the positive path in front of me. If you work at it, it becomes easier to see with time. I find some of the people I meet nice enough, but negative. I often get invited for dinner or drinks and decline due to a writing or editing project. I’m very careful with the people I let into my funny little world.

That being said I’m very comfortable in Daniels Bay. The energy here is really tranquil and I find peace floating in the air. I managed to knock out an article yesterday. I’m going to break out my editing equipment and work on the DVD for a few days and see what happens.

I’ve asked Machiko to join me sailing for a while. I’m hoping she comes to join me in Tahiti and sail West. She has a real job and apartment so it’s a big decision for her. She is one of the positive people in my life. She has never been sailing or lived this kind of life. I think the initial “culture shock” might be a bit strong coming from corporate Tokyo to “Laid back” Namaste, but I think she will find it pretty peaceful as well.

Peace, Love, and Good Energy!

– Alex

Daniels Bay

Lat -9.107222
Lon -140.3725

What a magnificent anchorage!

If you have access to Google earth you should check out this anchorage. I have 100% protection from the sea. The mountains climb thousands of feet in every direction. I’m sure one could weather a cyclone here.

I could even work here, I’m thinking of spending a week and seeing if my creative energy will fly. If it does I could get work done here and sail for the Tuamotos with a clear conscience.

Aki took video of Namaste under way on or 5 mile passage from the other anchorage. The wind was blowing 20, squalls hit us as soon as we broke the anchorage, and the seas were rowdy. The entrance to Daniels bay is totally hidden. You have to venture into an area between rocks and reef that you wouldn’t want to go, especially in conditions like today. Once you get close to the beach you make a dog leg to starboard and this beautiful protected cove is revealed.

I brought my sail over to Oriana’s boat but she was unable to finish the job do to broken needles, oh well.

Cheers everyone, have a great weekend.

– Alex

A good quote!

It really is the wet season; the rain is coming down in sheets.

Oriana came over yesterday morning to look at my sail and she closed my hatch on her toe, OUTCH!!! It came down on the nail of the big toe and bled for hours. I helped her to the hospital and they burned a hole in the nail to release the pressure on the other side.

This morning I’m taking down the jib and bringing it to her boat for repairs. I’ll be leaving in the morning for Denial’s bay. I’m ready to go and want to be at sea again.

I came across a quote that was suitable to me regarding my pacific crossing:

“…when you look long into an abyss,

the abyss also looks into you”.

– Friedrich Nietzsche

I feel like Neo in the matrix. Crossing the Pacific was like taking the “red pill” if you know what I mean.

Anyway I have to run, a lot to do today.

Have a great weekend everyone.

– Alex

A few more days!

I must follow the path of opportunity.

Oriana (Spelling) on “Osprey” can fix my jib, they have a sewing machine. I’m going to take down the jib and have it mended in the morning. I also want to sail to Daniel’s bay (5miles). From Daniels bay one can hike 2 hours to the third tallest waterfall in the world, I think it is something I should do. Chris and Maggie said I shouldn’t miss church on Sunday, “it’s quite the production and something you will want in your next video”, ARRRRGGGGG! You see this is what I mean about making plans, they always change? I really need to get away from the concept that I have any control of my life.

Today was laid back. I cleaned up and browsed the internet for a while. I also managed to get a few hours of writing in. Aki and I went to town for a few beers during the heat of the day.

Phillip is leaving tomorrow and I’m having a few people over for drinks and music this evening.

Wish I had more to write but not that much is going on, I just wanted to check in.

Peace, Love, and Life!

Alex

Young people.

I (not young (41)) invited Yanni (21) from Israel, and Oriana (23) from Austria over for drinks last night. They are crewing on an English boat (Osprey). Phillip (19) and Aki (old man :) joined as well. Yanni plays a nice guitar and we sang songs, drank rum, and spoke of our travels well into the evening. Phillip has decided to leave “Liberty” and fly back home to Canada this week. He wants to continue his studies.

Now that I’ve been traveling I think it’s fundamental for young people to travel. Going straight from high school to college should be intercepted by at least year of travel! I would conceder this time of travel as important, or more important then university with my own children. I’ve never met a high school graduate that really knew what he/she wanted to do with their life. They might think they do, or want to please their parents, but are as in the dark as a star on a moonless night. My first major was oceanography but I changed to business thinking that the dollar was more important, what a mistake! If I had traveled and taken time for myself I would have made wiser and more confident decisions with my education, and more importantly, with my path in life.

Young people who travel after high school get a much better sense of who they are. I also believe it’s important for kids to get away from the influence of their parents and peers. We might worry and think traveling is dangerous for our children, but that is false! It’s also false for us to believe “we know what’s best” for our young adults, by 18 it’s time to start flying solo. Self awareness is crucial in post-adolescent development and we must nurture it.

It’s so nice to wake up every day and enjoy my life. I spent so long unhappy and not on my path. Anyone thinking there is no light at the end of the tunnel is totally wrong, and “no”, it’s not too late. We must make changes in order to find happiness and not let society tell us what path to follow; hence the importance of “self awareness” early in life.

Today I’m going to the post office to buy a phone card and mosey around town buying food stuff for Namaste’s stores and my travels west.

Cheers from Nuka Hiva.

Peace, Love, and traveling.

– Alex

It’s a small world after all!

Click to view full size image

A gypsy soul!

I’m going through a transition in my life.

Something happened to me on the crossing from Panama…, the world got smaller. When I study charts now it’s “700 miles here, 1500 miles there, no big deal”. The world is my oyster, I love this life, and it is truly special! I often think of settling down one day, but will it be possible? I know I see myself in a bigger boat with more comfort and speed, but dirt? When it comes to the sea I might be a “lifer”, and that’s cool. I’m searching for the “perfect place”, but perhaps there are too many.

My passage from Panama was hard at times but I’m ready to go to sea again, she’s calling me. I’ll do a better job of stowing and provisioning this time. I’m going to cook a bunch of pasta salad and finger foods to eat under way. I’ll also make a big thermos of coffee which should last 2 or 3 mornings. If I go directly to Tahiti I’m looking at 7-9 days underway, if I stop in the Tuamotos around 5 days.

In Tahiti I want to take off the roller furling and inspect the forestay before proceeding west. The cracked turnbuckles really freaked me out; I guess I’m hard on my rig.

I need video of Namaste sailing for my next DVD. I spoke to Aki and the current plan is to leave together on Wednesday or Thursday morning. I’ll give him my video camera and we will sail to Ua Poe for a night or just long enough for him to return my camera. He will spend the day filming Namaste underway. He’s really pushing for me to visit one atoll (Ahi) in the Tuamotos. If I stop I hope I don’t get stuck there!

What will tomorrow bring?

Peace, Love, and freedom baby!

– Alex

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Nuka Hiva anchorage

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I took this picture just after I got up; I thought the light on the mountain was beautiful.

It rained all day yesterday and I never went off to photograph Rose, I’ll go today. I’m also going to buy some food for the crossing. I’ll kick over the refrigeration as I leave in hopes of catching some fish. Aki traded a lure with me “better for tuna” he said, I traded him a nice repala “good for wahoo”. Fresh sashimi for the trip would be awesome.

I’ve been studying the charts of Tahiti looking for a calm and secluded anchorage where I can hide and work. I think the South-West side of Tahiti is my best bet. I want to disappear from my friends for a while so I can work. This is not the easiest lifestyle to be able to focus on work, “Lets go snorkeling, come over for dinner, drinks” usually gets the best of me. If I had a dumpy apartment in an ugly city it would be best. I’ve also been craving some “alone time” I’ve been pretty busy since arriving in the Marquesas, I need to go on “walkabout”.

I will be sooooo happy when the next DVD is out. Shooting is the easy part, locking myself in a room in front of a computer for months is the harder part.

Cheers everyone.

Peace, Love, and Polynesia

– Alex

Bad rigging

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These turnbuckles are from under Namaste’s bumpkin. The are often underwater and take a large load when sailing downwind. I checked them when I left Panama. They were a bit rusty, but no cracks. I ordered new rigging from defender and I must say they were pleasure to work with. Hugh brought the rigging and we installed it when he was here, it took about an hour. As soon as I can save up I’ll order all new rigging. If your re-rigging your boat please conceder bronze turnbuckles. Stainless has a nasty way of hiding defects until it is potentially unsafe.
 
Yesterday I had to rewire my running lights (red/green), and remount the “white” on the stern as it came down with my radar mount. I’m back in business. At some point I would like to replace my running lights with more efficient LED’s.
 
Aki was having problems getting his laptop connected to the internet yesterday. I battled with his computer for an hour but finally figured it out. After that we headed to town for pizza and beer, it was nice to sit down in a restaurant.
 
Today I’m supposed to interview and photograph Rose in the early afternoon.
 
Namaste is all fueled up and I’ll sail to the west in a few days. I don’t really know where I’m going (Tahiti or Ttuamotoes) but I’ll figure it out under way.
 
Happy Sunday.
 
Peace, love, and a solid rig!
 
– Alex
 
 

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Friends

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I’m really torn about stopping in the Tuamotoes. It’s supposed to be like the San Blas. White sandy beaches full of coconut palms, friendly people, barrier reefs, and lots of fish. I really need to focus on my DVD though. I only have 2 more months in French Polynesia before I have to leave for…, wherever. Finishing the DVD will take me at least a month of full time work. I have a lot of it cut but the editing process is a lot of work. I’m thinking of passing the Tuamotos directly for Tahiti and visiting Moorea and Bora Bora on my way out. I’d work here but the anchorage is too rollie. In Tahiti I’ll be behind a reef. If I was in the Tuamotos for work, I fear I’d be distracted by spear fishing all day. Nobody knows my pain!

When I was on Hiva Oa I visited Paul Gauguin’s grave with Hugh, I thought you would want to see it. The other picture is of my friends Hiro, Jamena, and Aki.

An old sailing buddy of mine (Steve) from California hooked me up with some of his friends in Tahiti. I already have “good people” to meet which is always a really nice thing. Steve may also come out to visit me for my birthday. I already have the best birthday gift of all, my birthday in Tahiti, how cool is that?

Today I’m going to find Rose and her restaurant. I hear she makes a mean cheeseburger. I’m also planning on fixing my running lights and checking out the fuel situation. If I go straight for Tahiti I’m looking at a 7-10 day passage. I’ll need to prepare Namaste and my food situation. I don’t have radar which bums me out, sleeping will be difficult. I’ll fix it in Tahiti.

I hope everyone has a fabulous weekend.

Cheers from Paradise.

Peace, Love, and Work, work, work!

Alex

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Ua Poe

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I got up uber-early and went for a walk in town. I bought hot baguettes, fruit and Veggies.

On the way back I strolled through the shops as they were opening. I paid 2,700 franks (84 CFP = $1.00 USD) for a 5 hour internet hotspot card. I have internet access for the first time in months, and on the boat!

I spent a few hours trying to catch up on a slew of emails. I haven’t really seen the internet since Panama over 2 months ago. I’ve also had a nasty backpack of dirty laundry waiting for a wash and dropped it off for cleaning. I only had them wash it and Namaste is covered in my drying laundry.

The internet access is really slow but I wanted to get a picture of Namaste anchored in Ua Poe posted. It’s a beautiful place isn’t it?

Hugh left me with more episodes of lost, oh yeah; he got me hooked on the first season. I haven’t been able to watch them because I needed to authorize Hugh’s account on my itunes. Tonight is Lost night, I’m authorized!!! What is that hatch they found in the ground? Actually don’t tell me!

Peace, Love, and TV baby!!!!

Just kidding, I know its evil, but you know?

Alex

Nuka Hiva

Lat -9.166944
Lon -140.335833

I woke up in the dark yesterday in the pouring rain. It didn’t seem like the day to travel but I started preparing Namaste for sea. When the sun raised all it revealed was a world of wet grey. I let out 100’ of chain on the bow and pulled Namaste towards the stern anchor. When I pulled up the anchor I noticed that the chain to rope splice was worn and had been chafing on some coral or a rock. I pulled up the main anchor and quietly puttered out of Hakahau bay with the new day. I raised the main and unfurled the jib, shortly after I doused the motor and took my morning shower at the helm. Five years ago I would think it odd to wash my hair at the helm in the rain while sailing out of an unknown harbor, not anymore.

After my shower I made a new rope splice on the stern anchor before stowing the anchor rode in my new portable chain locker. When I left Panama I bought 2 large 15 gallon plastic containers for extra diesel. I’ve sacrificed one of them for my stern ground tackle, it works out quite well.

The morning was littered with squalls (22kts) but by early afternoon the day cleared to reveal Nuka Hiva. My friend Chris and Maggy are here on Contigo. I anchored next to them and rowed over for a visit. Maggy made a nice dinner and we caught up on old times over wine. Chris is going bonkers to go spear fishing and really wants to “beat feet” to the Tuamotos. Chris and Maggy are thinking of skipping New Zeeland as well.

Today I’m going to shore to interview a local cruiser (Rose) who dropped anchor here over 20 years ago. She now owns the museum and restaurant. I’m going to write something about her for Latitudes and Attitudes.

I love my life!

Peace, Love, and Happy Birthday Mark!

– Alex

Adventure

I know what kind of boat I would like next. I could easily see myself in a Westsail 32, but I’ve fallen in love with Cape George’s. I visited a 40’ Cape George yesterday “Mist”, she is a beautiful boat and exactly what I would like in my next boat. They make a 36 which would be a little better for me. I don’t know that I’d ever be able to afford one, but if I could “What a sweet ride”!

I visited with Mist’s owners Jim and Lina for an hour or so. They are traveling backwards and are on the way back to BC. They have confirmed what I’ve been thinking. I’ve been thinking of skipping New Zeeland (Land of cruisers) and venturing through unfamiliar water to the Solomon Islands, Pappa New Guinea (Melanesia), and into Indonesia, before heading west to China and India. It’s a bit trickier cruising as many of the countries endure civil unrest, charts are scarce, and piracy can be a problem, but what an adventure! You only live once right?

Time will tell my future. Truthfully I have no idea where my path leads, I can only speculate.

I’ve pushed my crossing to Nuka Hiva a day as there is a native dance festival today. I think it might be a good opportunity for Photos and video.

I’m getting excited to venture further South West to the Tuamotos.

Peace, Love, and life.

Alex

ipod

I’ not a big fan of technology anymore but I’m convinced my ipod will make my life better.

Hugh downloaded and brought me a copy of itunes and I finally got it working. I spent yesterday morning organizing my music and loading up my 4GB Nano.

I rowed to shore listening to Van Morrison, pausing to look at the magnificent spires which seem to reach for the heavens. The mountains here are truly unique and I’ve never seen anything like them…, magnificent!

The beach was full of children skim boarding. As soon as I got to shore I was approached by a mob of 12 young girls (9-12) wanting to listen to my ipod. They lined up smiling and giggling, never thinking I would refuse them. I wanted to give them a new experience and I switched the music to a little opera (Bocelli), and turned up the volume. They seemed to go through a transformation after I put on the headphones. They had a bubbly nervous energy at first, but after a minute or so of music they calmed, a few girls even closed their eyes to savor the new sound. One girl looked up at me with total conviction and said “ce tre manifique” (it is very beautiful)! I don’t think any of them have ever listened to opera or any classical music for that matter. They were all very polite and thanked me before they started discussing the strange “white mans” music amongst themselves.

I spent the afternoon roving around town listening to music, picking fruit, and looking for chickens. The hills are full of goats and pigs; I wish I had a .22. I’m thinking of starting a new diet. I would like only to eat meat that I kill. It seems more natural, responsible, and humane that way.

Aki is going to the other side of the island today. We spotted a nice cove on the way to the airport the other day. I’ll probably head for Nuka Hiva in the morning, and return to the west side of Ua Poe on my way to the Tuamotoes in a week or so. I really want to get a photo of the spires of Ua Poe up on the website and want to find an internet connection.

I love my ipod, thanks Aldo.

Peace, Love, and music.

Alex

Hugh

Aki invited our friends that live on Hive Oa (Hiro & Jameina) to join him on the sail to Ua Pou. We all had a nice dinner last night as Aki caught a 35 pound Wahoo, they are anchored just next to me. The crossing was a bit rough and littered with squalls. I think Hugh had a good time experiencing sailing in the south Pacific, he was wise to bring fowl weather gear.  

Hugh went back this afternoon. I really enjoyed my charter with him, what a cool guy. He taught me how to hunt and clean birds which will go a long way in this land of expensive meats. Hugh has a 33’ Choi Lee and will be cruising soon. Hiro and Jamena were on the same flight with him. It stops on Nuka Hive before continuing to Hive Oa.

Aki and I walked around town and had lunch at a small restaurant this afternoon. I think he is as excited about the Tuamotos as I am. I really miss clear water and spear fishing every day. I think I’ll head for Rangerioa in a week or so.

I’ve heard a roomer that there is wireless internet on Nuka Hiva. I’ll check it out in a few days and post some new pictures if possible.

Hope everyone is having an awesome weekend.

Cheers.

Alex

at sea…

Hugh Again.  I think Alex is getting lazy about writing his log.  He hasn’t written one since I’ve been here.

We left Hive Oa yesterday at about 3 pm local time.  We sailed through the night, through two squalls, of course during my watch, and are still about 2 hrs from Ua Pou.

Nights at sea in the tropical pacific are beyond description.  All night long we were accompanied by phosphorescent sea creatures, some tiny and others huge.  Sometimes we could hear some large thing leaping out of the water and splashing back down.  When I shined a flashlight into the water I could see bright red eyes staring back.

It is great to be out in the pacific sailing slowly to a beautiful island.  We can see Nuku Hive to the North, and Ua Huka to the East. 

I miss my girlfriend, but I can’t wait to get out here and do it myself.  Anyone who is on the fence or who knows they are going but think they need more money or more stuff should come spend a week with Alex.  He is a perfect host (he stayed awake through most of my first watch in case I needed him) and is about as knowledgeable as a sailor can be about how to do this right, and right now. 

By the way, we used to take turns shooting chickens, but Alex got so much better than me that I gave up.  He provided us with more chicken before we left Hive Oa.  It is nice to have some kind of food for free as even beer is amazingly expensive (more than $21 per six pack.)  When we checked out of Hive Oa we checked again with the Gendarme about the chickens.  They told us to take all we want. 

One of Alex’ friends caught a 35 lb wahoo yesterday, so we will have sushi tonight

Alex would probably say:

Peace, Love and Wahooooooo…

Chickens…

Someone, God alone knows who, once said “every day is an adventure.”  No where is that more true than here. 

I did not mention this before, but Air France lost my checked baggage between Los Angeles and Pape’ete.  They gave me 18,000 Polynesian Francs, about $150 U.S., so I would be able to buy “necessities.”  I think they failed to realize that a pair of shorts costs $45, a T-shirt costs $50 dollars and bottles of sunblock and insect repellant together cost $42 U.S.. Thank God I had my toothbrush in my carryon, as I have not seen them for sale anywhere.  Finally, yesterday, they found my bag and shipped it here to Hive Oa.  We hitchhiked to the airport to pick it up yesterday.  It felt awfully good to wear my own clothes again, and to find the little treats my girlfriend secretly packed in my bag.    

We spent much of the rest of the day chasing dinner.  You might remember that Aex said these islands are full of wild, well semi wild, chickens and he wished he had a way to catch them.   So I brought some cheap slingshots.  After a couple of hours we got our dinner – two medium sized hens that were a little too comfortable around humans. 

Supplied with civilized provisions, Alex prepared an absolute feast.  Anyone who comes to visit Alex is in for a treat, as he is able to whip up gourmet meals in minutes. 

It is raining today, so we are just hanging out on the boat until it stops.  Hopefully it will and I will go ashore and visit the largest archeological site in the Marquesas while Alex (or Areke as the Polynesians call him) gets the boat ready to cross to Ua Pou tomorrow. 

Peace Love and free-range chickens…

 

Hugh’s Log

Hugh here. Alex suggested that I write the log today. 

It is hard to imagine being so far away from home.  I traveled about 27 hours almost straight to get here.  I think the feel of these islands is even farther away from Houston than the miles between. 

I flew in on a tiny little airplane (a twin otter for anyone interested in aviation) that did not have a pressurized cabin.  We had to fly low and what a ride it was.   We landed on several islands on the way here, and each island has its own character, and each is beautiful.  Flying in you see waterfalls, inaccessible heights, horses and goats, beautiful fairly terns circling below (and sometimes above). It is impossible to describe how beautiful these islands are.

The joke here is that the islanders thank God that the French administer these islands rather than the Americans.  I have to agree.  Visitors today see these islands much as early Western explorers.  There are no skyscraper hotels, no business  parks, and no mansions.  It truly is a paradise, and I am glad that these islands are so inaccessible.  I can’t wait to sail here in my little ketch Chinquapin. 

By the way, let me warn other would be guests of alex’, stay away from his wine (epoxy) unless he can prove he has made substantial improvement since I was here.

Peace love and Swells beneath a tall green mountain.

Guest

Still no guest.

I tracked down his hotel on Nuka Hiva but it is either closed, or he’s not in, communication has been difficult. I spoke to a woman on the island who said he will be at the airport this morning trying to get a flight, I hope he makes it.

I went hiking through the thickest jungle yesterday with Aki and Hiro. We were trying to find a waterfall but no luck. I did find lots of mosquitoes. We found a nice stream to cool off in it was full of shrimp, Hiro said they are good eating.

I wish I had more interesting stuff to write today but I’m off to the airport to wait and read.

Cheers.

Alex

Pig

My guest was supposed to arrive yesterday. I was at the airport all afternoon but no guest. He sent me an email last night; he is on Nuka Hiva. I’m hoping he can catch a flight today, I’m really bummed he missed the pig roast.

The pig roast was awesome. I can’t get over how wonderful my new friends are. I took many pictures and video clips that I will upload from Tahiti. The evening was filled with great Marquesan food, laughter, and wine. It turned into a jam session with various people on the guitar, ukulele, flute, spoons, or just banging on the table. We all sang Polynesian, Japanese, and American folk songs. It was like a scene out of a movie cast upon a moonless star filled Polynesian backdrop. The air was laced with the scent of flowers, pig, and fire. I love this place!

Today I need to figure out how to collect Hugh, I hope he can get a flight.

Cheers everyone, I hope your weekend is as merry as mine.

Peace, Love, and Pig!

– alex

Guest

My guest (Hugh) arrives tomorrow.

I really here because of Hugh. He booked his visit when I was in Panama and the extra dollars led me to the Marquesas as opposed to Hawaii for work.

He is bringing me a new VHF, rigging, and hopefully he can bring my radar pole, it’s 8 feet long. Air France told him they had issues with it as checked baggage because of it’s length. I don’t know why the box should be around the same size as a set of skies and smaller then a long board. Airlines have gotten funny since 911, haven’t they?

I saw Cassy yesterday. Sora pulled into the anchorage to check in, but I think they’re leaving today or tomorrow. We spoke for a couple hours and caught up on each others lives since Panama.

Aki is taking our local friends out for a sail today. I’m going to hang back and do some laundry and clean the boat.

Has everyone checked out the new pictures in the gallery?

Peace, Love, and Paradise.

– lex

Tattoo!

The Marquesas are a tattoo culture. Women and children have tattoos.

I met the Tattoo artist (Nazario) yesterday. We talked about designs and I looked at his work. It’s the best work I’ve ever seen. Mostly he focused on my bond with the sea, and finally my relationship with spear fishing. “There are many sharks in Polynesia, do you have a good relationship”? “In my years of spear fishing I’ve only had one aggressive shark; a bull shark chased me out of the water in the Bahamas”.

He started sketching on my arm between my 2 other tattoos, and I went for it. I have the most beautify detailed shark on my upper left shoulder.  It’s back is a Marquesan protection Tiki, and its tail a ray. I am more then happy with it. I’ll post a picture when I can. The sharks should leave me alone now.

I called my buddy Hiro and he picked me up in the Land Rover. I was a few hours late for lunch and everyone watched me eat and drink wine as they inspected Nazario’s latest work. Everyone agreed it was “top notch” and gave their approval.

I met a Tiki carver who was particularly interested in the work. He carves Tiki. He is known through out French Polynesia and France. Hiro tells me he is very famous. He is coming to Namaste this morning to carve a Tiki in my compression post, I’m psyched.

I spoke to Chris and Maggie (Contigo) on the SSB this morning. They are less than 1000 miles out. They lost their boom yesterday and are sailing on the jib. I need to go into town to find a metal shop for them, their “Goose-neck broke”.

We were going to have our pig roast on Friday but I asked if we could push it to Saturday so my guest could join, the Party is set for Saturday. It should be fun.

Do I have to leave this place?

Peace, Love, Tattoos, Tiki, and fresh Pig!!!

– Alex

Humanity!

I had an ultra fantastic day yesterday.

Aki, Massa, Phillip and I met Hiro and Jemind on the beach at 9am. Phillip and I jumped into the small open bed in the back of the land rover. We wanted to give the dry interior seats to Aki and Massa.

We drove to an archeological site and visited the tomb of an ancient worrier, I can’t remember his name. This tomb is significant in the Marquesan culture because this particular worrier turned into a God.

After that we drove another 20 minutes to the largest Archeological site in the Marquesas, near the town of Taoaa. We walked around the remains of the old village for a few hours picking fruit and hot peppers. We came across a large smiling Tiki. I will upload photos as soon as I find a place.

We drove back to Hiro’s house for a light lunch of fruit, vegetables, meat, and baguettes. An hour or so later we drove to the North side of the island. We stopped by the beach and bought freshly dried vanilla beans from a local man. I’m having some fresh vanilla in my coffee now, it’s awesome.

Then we walked to the beach and picked almonds off of the ground by a nearby tree. We cracked them open with rocks while Jemind picked fresh flowers for everyone. Men wear a flower behind their ear here, it smells quite nice.

Phillip and I got wet on the way back down the mountain. We arrived back at Hiro’s house around 15:00 and started preparing a sushi feast for dinner. Later in the evening his friend Rico showed up with his wife and daughter. We all ate sushi, played guitar, sang songs, laughed, and drank wine and whisky. My belly is soar today from laughing so hard. Rico is a large Polynesian man from the Austral Island group. He is the local mathematics teacher, and his wife teaches English.

At the end of the evening Rico presented Aki and I each with a large box. The box contained food. Canned hams, cheese, pasta, rice, sugar, and flower. Aki and I looked at each other confused. The large man spoke in a soft voice. “It is our way, and has been for many generations. The only way my people could survive in the past was to help travelers from other islands. We do not want anything in return, but only to help you on your travels in Polynesia”.  I had to fight back a tear. I don’t know if I’ve ever received such a generous gift. Food here is very expensive and I’m sure they don’t make much. I was quiet for the ride back to the boat. I have to admit after 911 I started loosing faith in humanity. I would see greed and corruption faster then human kindness, I’m glad that’s changing.

I’m going to meet a local tattoo artist to see his work this morning. After that I’m going to visit Rico’s house for lunch with Aki.

Alcohol here is really, REALLY expensive.  A small bottle of Jack is $65.00. I spoke with Hiro last night and he said I could trade on of my half gallon bottles of rum for a large pig. I only paid $7.50 for the bottle in Panama. Hiro has a spit at his house and we could roast the pig over the weekend. Aki thinks it’s a good idea and will donate a few bottles for the party; we could invite all of the neighbors and have a real island feast.

Lets all try and do something kind today, it really makes the world such a nicer place.

Peace, love, and Polynesia!

– Alex

Touring

Aki and I made friends with the guy who runs the meteorological office. He invited us for site seeing and dinner tomorrow. He has a Land Rover and we will be able to get to the archeological sites without a problem.

I have to meet my yacht agent later in the day to fill out some paper work so I can buy “duty free” fuel. I should be able to buy my diesel for around $3.00 a gallon as opposed to $5.25. I made 2 phone calls today for $40.00 (2 phone cards). I think it’s more economical for me to use my satellite phone.

I jut got back from town. I visited the vegetable stand, the local woman who sells eggs, and walked to a farm to buy some fruit. It so relaxed here. South America has the Latin vibe thing going on, and I love it. But I’m really enjoying island life again. It’s really nice to take time for a stroll in the rain or just to stop and chat with people. I chased a chicken for a while today, man those things are fast, no luck. I wish I had an air gun or wrist rocket. I’m thinking of trying to make a trap from fishing net. Anyone have any experience catching chickens?

Machi already emailed in my photos and I’m hoping they will be posted today. I’m excited for everyone to see this beautiful island.

Peace, love, and free range chicken!

– Alex

Tempura

I must admit I was quite sad to see Machiko off yesterday. We had a really wonderful week together. I met Machi in Panama just before I left to cross the Pacific. I was friends with her mom Yoko who I met through Aki and company.  I hope to see Machi again soon.

Last night was tempura night with Aki, Massa, Phillip, and Seki. I was feeling a bit off and retired early. The night was moonless and I could hardly see my way rowing back to Namaste. While I was rowing my dinghy was struck by something large, I’m thinking a shark or ray. Perhaps it was as blind as I was and just collided with me?

Today I’m planning on filing the fuel tank with the fuel on deck and changing the racor filter. I may also bring my fuel jugs to the gas station and get some diesel, $5.25 per gallon, ouch!

I’ve started another batch of wine. This time it’s made with Japanese rice, raisins, mangos, lime, dragon fruit, and of course sugar, water, and yeast. When I get to Tahiti I need to find an online wine making supply site. I need the powder that stops the fermentation process, and another that makes the sediment fall to the bottom of the container. My wine looks more like beer and I’d like to clean it up. I’d really like to produce enough so I don’t have to buy any more alcohol. I’m starting to collect empty wine bottles. I’m enjoying winemaking.

Aki spoke to the local police the other day and asked if we could hunt the local chickens, “no problem, take as many as you like, they are wild”. I’ve never cleaned a bird before; I hear it’s easier if you boil it for a few minutes first?

I hope everyone has a beautiful weekend.

Life is good!

Peace, Love, and Paradise.

– Alex

SAKE KING!!!!

There were no rental cars available yesterday so Machiko and I went food shopping and walked around town.

We were invited to “Polaire” for dinner last night. Polaire is a beautiful Japanese vessel (Tayana 52), and is captained by Seki.

Aki, Massa, and Phillip came as well. Machiko and I made a really nice salad and I broke out my first bottle of home made wine (Sake). I made two different batches. One was only made with raisins and tastes funny; I think it is turning to vinegar.  The other was primarily made with Japanese rice. It also had raisins and a few plums. The alcohol content was a bit high so I added a little fresh lime juice and sugar, it came out really nice. It was put to the test by serious sake drinking Japanese men that approved. The bottle was gone in the first half hour and followed by a nice buzz.  

Seki is really into electronics and gadgets. He has a huge remote controlled, gas driven helicopter onboard, not to mention a professional karaoke system. After the sake and a few Hinano beers (Beer of Tahiti) everyone started singing karaoke. I sang “Yesterday”, and politely bowed out of everything else.

                                                                                                                    

I’m off to the airport in a few minutes then I will return to Atuona for my fresh baguette run.

Cheers from Paradise.

Peace, Love and my yummy Sake!!!!

– Alex

Boat time.


Time on a boat is slow. Yachties often forget the date, often the month, and not many of us wear watches as a matter of principle. Machiko and I got up early to make her noon flight and over coffee realized she doesn’t leave until tomorrow. We were both happy with the appearance of an extra day. We never got a chance to rent a car so we will try again today. Yesterday was a rainy, stay in the boat and watch movies kind of day.

About 5 more boats arrived in the anchorage yesterday, it’s getting tight again.

Someone sent me a really beautiful instant message this morning which I want to share:

“Life is short. Break the rules.

Forgive quickly. Kiss slowly. Love truly.

Laugh uncontrollably, and never regret anything that made you smile”.

Not a bad philosophy.

Thanks Amy.

Peace, Love, and Paradise.

Alex

Logs

Sorry for the lapse in logs, I’ve been preoccupied. Machico and I have been having a blast. We’ve also just been kicking back. She works long hours back home and needed a rest as much as I did after the crossing.

Machi goes back to Tokyo on Friday and my other guest arrives on the 12 th. I need to go into handyman mode ASAP. I have to fix the head, running lights, stove, scrape the bottom, change the racor filter, change the oil, and fill up the water and diesel tanks.

I just met another single hander, Dan on “Sand Dollar”. He had a good supply of fresh Dorado as he just arrived after his crossing. I’m going to have Aki, Massa, and Phillip over for dinner.

Tomorrow I’m going to try and secure a rental car in the morning and tour the island.

We just got back from our daily run to town for fresh bread. I need to get to cooking as I’m to have guests shortly.

I’m sending Machi back with a CD of pictures to upload to the site, they should be up in about a week.

Has anyone ever eaten “dragon fruit” before I had it for the first time today? It’s red, covered with spikes and has a really nice flavor.

Peace, Love, and Paradise

alex

Waterfall

Machico and I went hiking in search of an archeological site yesterday. We never found it but we hiked through the jungle for a few hours. We picked limes, mangos, bananas, and nonie. Nonie is a really horrible tasting fruit that is supposed to be very healthy, it really smells rancid.

We saw a really beautiful water fall, it must have been over 1000 feet high but we could not get close enough to go for swim.

After getting back to the main road we walked to the village of Taaoa. There is nothing more then a church, school, a few houses, and a beautiful beach. We got some good photos.

I‘m going to give Machi a CD of pictures to email to my buddy David when she gets back to Tokyo. I should have pictures posted in a few weeks.

Machi has never been snorkeling so that’s the agenda for the day.

We my try and rent a car tomorrow to explore the island. I want to get some more video as I’m planning on getting the next DVD finished shortly.

Peace from paradise.

-Alex

Rainy morning.

Machico arrived on schedule.

I was told that the hike to the airport was 3 hours and not to expect a ride. Coming back would not be a problem as many people would be driving back to Aunota. I left 4 hours before she arrived. I immediately got a ride and found myself at an empty airport with 3 hours to spare. As I am Alex Dorsey I always have a contingency plan and had a thick book in my backpack. I read for a few hours and took a nap. We got a ride in the back of a pick-up on the way back with no problem

Aki had gone to town that day and bought a lot of fresh tuna.

Last night we had a grand feast of Sashimi and Sushi on liberty. Machico brought me a nice bottle of saki which we all shared last night.

Today we are planning on hiking/hitching to the other side of the island. We will be hunting for bananas, mango, grape fruit, papya, and breadfruit.

Machico says she is having a good time.

Peace from paradise.

– Alex

Marijuana

I went to town yesterday for bread and cheese. On the way I decided to stop into the police station to study a map on the wall of the island. I wanted to make sure I hitch hiked the right road to the airport today. As I was studying the map I smelled marijuana burning. I turned to look at the cops; they were busy checking in a cruiser. I thought maybe one was toke’n up in the back room. I peeked out the window and saw some young adults across the street passing a joint. They were kicking around a soccer ball with absolutely no concern of the police. It’s kind of laid back here.

I walked to the store, it was closed. The vegetable stand and post office were also closed. I was hungry and decided to stop at a snack shop for a sandwich. Not thinking I ordered a burger and beer. The burger was a scrawny little thing, and the meat kind of tasted like beef. I was surprised to get a $23.00 bill. In Panama City it would be no more then $2.00. The price for a cheese burger in paradise I suppose.

My diet is turning out to be pretty healthy. Baguettes and butter, cheese, fresh fruits and vegetables. I want to figure out how to make jam. Perhaps I should try the vegetarian thing?  I didn’t eat meat in the San Blas often and I felt fantastic. I took a small taste of my fermenting wine test this morning. It’s kind of good, tastes like juice that might give you a buzz?

Subscriptions seem to have leveled off at the $290 mark, and by no means am I complaining. Less money just means I need to be more creative.

I’m off to clean the cockpit, then a long hike up the mountain to the airport. I hope to get a ride for part of the way. I’m told coming back isn’t a problem as a few cars will surly be headed to town.

Cheers everyone.

Peace from my Polynesian Paradise.

Alex

Rigging

I did a hard days work in the blaring sun yesterday, I’m getting quite dark.

I finished cleaning the water line which took a few hours. When I was about half done Aki and Massa, came to help me. With 2 extra pairs of hands it went quickly and only cost me 2 cold Guinness’s. It’s nice to have good friends.

I also scrubbed the bathroom and disassembled the radar mount. When I was working on the radar mount I noticed that the pin which holds the tiller to the rudder was wearing into the rudder. 2 large washers were rusted away, I replaced them. Then I did a quick inspection of the rig. One of my turnbuckles is cracked quite badly. There are 2 turnbuckles under the bumpkin which are often under water. I can’t go anywhere until they are replaced. I believe if I had been at sea another week I may have lost the rig. It’s a quick fix (10 mins), however I need the newhardware. With my new found wealth I’m going to place an order for new rigging for the bumpkin (about $500). I will have my next guest bring it, or have it shipped ASAP!

After the day was done I went to Liberty for udon noodles and sake. Aki and I contemplated sailing into the black sea. Not many cruise in the black sea and it might make for interesting video.  There are however many miles between here and there.

Today is laundry day again. It takes a lot of effort to do laundry by hand. A load may take me a few hours and is quite a workout. But what the hell, I have time, and I do it in a beautiful environment.

My friend Machiko arrives tomorrow. I will start hitch hiking for the airport around noon; she arrives just after 16:00.

The subscriptions are still coming in and I now have an income of $275 a month, I’m so happy and relieved I can’t see strait, I will dance the hula!!! I’m surprised that $150.00 of that is due to 3 $50/mo subscriptions. At this rate I may just reach my goal of $500 a month, only $225.00 more to go. This is a result of 5 years of work on the website. Many may laugh at how happy I am with so little money, but this is the sweetest money I’ve ever made. It is a result of a labor of love. I think when one makes money doing what they want it is far sweeter then doing a job they hate, good energy too.

Until tomorrow.

Peace from Paradise.

Alex

Wow!!!

Ia Orana (Greetings)

I’m amazed!!!

It’s a rainy, rainy morning, but my Paypal account is shining!!! I feel like finding a grass skirt and doing the Hula on the deck this morning, I need to find a ukulele.

Just yesterday I receiver subscriptions of $120.00 a month, I am really touched. Once I reach my $500 a month goal I’m going to have my buddy’s daughter select a monthly subscriber at random and give away a week charter, hopefully to someone who really needs it.

I might just be able to pull this whole thing off. At the beginning of my trip I told myself “if I make it around the world with empty pockets, it will be worth every penny and every ounce of effort”. Bluesphere isn’t about making money, in fact, I don’t even like talking about it, well except today : ) So many people told me that I will never forge an income out of the internet. So many cruisers try various ways of making money online but I don’t know of any who are actually doing it.

I found more yellow liquid this morning. I think Alfred is potty training himself on my stove. I’d roll up a newspaper and swat him on the nose and send him outside, but I think it would be a “splat” situation. How do you reprimand a gecko?

I went to town yesterday. No joy on finding a glass container for winemaking. I did find some balloons and I’m trying a small wine making experiment in an empty bottle of rum. We’ll see what happens in a week.

I went back to the post office to check email. For some reason I can’t get into my gmail account. The keyboard here is worse (unusual) then the ones in S. America. The letters are actually in different places.

After buying some groceries I hitch Hiked up to the hotel on the road to the airport, about 5 clicks. Their internet access is not for the public, the manager also told me that it is “no faster then the post office but they are working on it”. I explained that I can’t check my email at the post office and I need to find a place to plug in my laptop. She told me to come back later this week after 13:00 and she would let me plug in for a while.

The view from the mountain was breathtaking. I was literally walking in the clouds looking down at a little white speck (Namaste). I sat on the side of the road and had a little bread and cheese. I also carry a camelback and fill it from my water maker. I don’t buy bottled water. I found a fruit farm walking down the mountain on my way back to Namaste. I bought the best grapefruit I’ve ever tasted. Sweeter then any orange, and the size of a cannon ball. I also bought some limes and avocados. The avocados are 3 times the size of the largest avocados I’ve ever seen.

This is such a funny place. People don’t have much money but everyone drives my dream car, a land rover jeep, I heard they were subsidized by the government. The stores are filled with pate, caviar, and a good selection of wine and cheese. Not to mention fantastic baguettes and croissants. So many Americans give the French a hard time and I must protest. My mother grew up in Paris. She allays said “there are only 2 places I could ever live in this world, New York City, and Paris”. She also said that “the French could possibly be the most intelligent nation in the world for one reason, and one reason only. They hold their chefs and artists in higher importance then their politicians”.  Perhaps we should follow suit?

I’ve been working on Namaste just about every day since I got here and there is still so much to do. A long crossing really takes its toll on the boat. Today is more cleaning and laundry. I’m also going to try and knock out the waterline on the starboard side. It’s not like a normal water line cleaning. The growth is half way up the hull due to deep healing for extended periods of time. I’ve never had such a hard time cleaning the hull.

I really want to thank everyone who subscribed yesterday, from the bottom of my heart. It means allot to me that you guys enjoy Project BlueSphere enough to help me on my way. Only about $390.00 a month to go.

Peace from my Polynesian paradise.

Alex

I didn’t cross the Pacific alone!

There must have been a festival or gathering last night. I fell asleep to the sound of native drums echoing off of the steep cliffs, and the smell of fire and cooked pig. It rained most of the night and I’m kicking myself for not hooking up my water catcher, I’ll do that today. Namaste is listing to port from an abundance of fuel (tank on the port side), and a near empty tank of water on the starboard side. I opened my eyes this morning to the sound of the rain beating the decks and the sweet smell of earth and sea. I am soooo happy!

I don’t know if you remember, but when I was in Espirito Santo (Las Perlas) in Panama, I found a small gecko on my boat. I named him Alfred.

When I went to make my coffee this morning I noticed a little yellow liquid on the stainless surface of my stove top. “What’s that” I thought, “looks like pee”? A moment later I noticed Alfred crawling up the wall, “It is pee, hello Alfred; I thought you were dead, welcome to the Marquesas”!

I had a really nice breakfast of baguette, butter, and strawberry jam while listening to Pavarotti and watching Alfred walk on the ceiling. “It would be cool to walk on the ceiling, but not as cool as sailing around the world”.

The anchorage is getting a bit crowded and there are 30 more boats on the way from the Galapagos. I don’t know where they will fit.

During my search for internet today I’m going to visit the hardware store.  I’m looking for a 3-5 gallon glass container for wine making. One of my friends told me that “Raisin jack” is easy to make. Another told me to check the internet for wine making supplies, and that I could buy juice for cabernet, merlot, and so on. It should only take 10 or so days to make a batch, and what an achievement, not to mention a great way to save money.

Speaking of achievements, it’s always been my vision that Project Bluesphere would provide me a small income. Although I get few donations and DVD sales, it is not really enough to survive. Chartering here will be difficult given the geographic distance from the states. We just put up an optional $4.95 a month subscription button. I know so many of my readers are daily visitors, and enjoyed crossing the Pacific with me. I’m hoping you feel it’s worth the .16 cents a day to support my efforts in sharing my dream. I’m not looking for a dollar from a million people, just $4.95 a month from one hundred. With an income of $500 a month I could easily continue on without having to worry about returning to the states to build up the cruising kitty. If you can’t afford it, don’t worry and please continue to enjoy the site. If you can I believe the link to the subscription/donation page is just above, or below, the log you are reading now.

Anyway…, time to clean up and head to shore for a shower before going to town.

Cheers everyone.

Peace, Love, and Gecko pee!

– Alex

setteling in.

I went in search of internet today, I want to upload pictures.

I rowed into shore before 7am.

I took a shower outside watching the mist roll off of the steep cliffs. The sunlight streamed between the clouds warming my skin and the rugged green of my world burned its impression into my memory castle, I’ll never forget this place. I thought of my uncomfortable time at sea as I washed myself in the cool fresh water which pumped from a nearby stream. I decided that if the sensation of being at sea was equal to ripping my flesh from bone, it would be worth my time in paradise.

I hitch-hiked into town and got a ride on a garbage truck, it was surprisingly clean.

I was told there is only one internet terminal on the island, at the post office. When I got to the post office I found an internet terminal that you have to put a phone card into. No problem, I bought a phone card. After closer inspection I realized there is no USP port, ARRRGGGGGG!!!! And the connection is so slow it takes more then .60 seconds for Google to load…, pictures, “I don’t know”??? Someone told me to try the hotel on the road to the airport. There is a rumor they have a fast machine and connection. I will try tomorrow.

Three different people came up to me to shake my hand and use their only English “Hello, Welcome”! It’s nice when everybody doesn’t have their hand out.

I bought a few baguettes, some tomatoes and cheese, and started walking back to the boat. I put my thumb out and the first car stopped as usual, everyone gives you a ride here.

I took another shower before getting into my launch, it’s hot, and there is an abundance of fresh water. This is rainy season.  When I got to the boat I made a nice cheese and tomato sandwich with fresh rosemary and lettuce. I also had a glass of cold red wine, I know…, but its good cold! It was around 11:00.

After a quick 40 minute power nap I fixed the boom and cleaned the port side water line. Then I took another shower.

Someone asked me to post my schedule over the next few months. I don’t have a schedule, but if I did, it would be as follows. My friend Machiko is coming for a week on the 28th. After that I will spend a solid week working on the boat before another guest comes for a week visit. Remember the charter I secured in Panama, he is coming around the 11th. We will spend a few days here then well go and check out Ua Poa for a few more days. He will fly out of Ua Poa. After that I’m planning on visiting Nuka Hiva, then sailing a week or so (around 500 miles) to the Tuamotos. I’ll spend a while there and head to Tahiti for my Birthday (July 14th).

So who is coming to Tahiti for my birthday?

After Tahiti I want to see Bora Bora, then the cooks, Samoa, the Kingdom of Tonga, and then Fiji. After that I have no clue!

Someone turned down the speed on my world. I feel like a 45 on LP speed. Everything is passing in slow motion and there is a sweet smell in the air.

Namaste $20,000, refit $15,000, sailing to paradise…, Priceless!!!!

I periodically find myself laughing. LG…, Life’s Good!!

Cheers from Hive Oa

Peace, Love, and a glass of wine at 11:00.

– Alex

Gr8 day!

Today was check in day.

I went to the police station to get my entry stamp and ships papers worked out (no charge). Aki was in tow and got his boat dealt with as well.

After that we went shopping to get some fresh food.

IT IS SOOOO BLOODY EXPENSIVE HERE!!!! A bottle of beer is $5.00, $8.00 in a restaurant, American soda is equally as expensive. Some items are reasonable. I bought 2 baguettes for around 80 cents, and a small can of pate for $3.65. By the way I haven’t had a baguette, or bread this good for about 5 years. I’m going to have to figure out how to survive here. Spear fishing is out of the question as I have learned the reef fish have cigueterra (poison) and I don’t want to risk it. Hunting local pigs might be an option. Otherwise its beans, rice, bread & butter, and lots of wonderful fruit, doesn’t sound so bad.

I’m really tired from walking and cleaning today. I was going to skip doing a log but wanted to check in. I’ll write more tomorrow.

Cheers everyone.

Peace, Love, and Polynesian Coconuts

– Alex

I’m home!

And I don’t think it is the fact that I’ve been at sea for six weeks.

Aki and his crew (Masa and Phillip) went to town with me last night. We hitch-hiked into town which is about 4 kilometers to the west. We promptly got a ride in the open bed of a passing truck. A gentile rain washed our smiling faces as we took in our new surroundings. This place is mysteriously clean. The air is laden with the scent of flower, fruit, rain, and earth. A few moments passed and the truck stopped in the center of town and we hoped out. “Welcome” the driver said in a heavy French accent and waved as he drove off.

I felt like I was walking through the Shire. Every plant dawns a beautiful flower, and every tree a sweet fruit. Horses, pigs, and chickens walk the street however there are no garbage or droppings. The local faces are warm and smiling in an unselfish way. Everyone says “hello and welcome” with their eyes. The children are playful and inquisitive.

I found a bank machine and took out 10,000 franks; I think the exchange is 80 franks to a dollar. The stores were closed as this is election weekend. Phillip speaks good French and asked about a restaurant, he explained we wanted something nice to celebrate our Pacific crossing.

After a short hike up a hill we found a quant little house/restaurant overlooking the bay. After studying the menu for a moment I found steak, and then I remembered my celebratory dry steak dinner after crossing the Caribbean. Colombia is not known for their steak and one if far better off ordering pork. Polynesia in known for pork as well, however I came across goat on the menu and asked the waitress. “Goat with coconut is the specialty of the Marquesas Islands; I think you will enjoy it”. “Enough said”, I will try the goat.

I thought I would get a plate of tuff meat and rice. When the beautifully prepared plate arrived I realized I was in a French country, food is important. I wish I could describe how wonderful my goat was. The meat was tender with just the right amount of fat. It was served with basmati rice with an exquisite coconut/sherry sauce. My meal was utterly extraordinary!

After our wonderful meal, we all quietly walked the 4 clicks back to the boat. I think we all noticed how extremely tired we all were. My bones ache, and my mussels need a good stretch. I’m going to dig out my Yoga DVD and give my body a present this week.

I was out as soon as my head hit my dirty and salty pillow; I slept solid for 11 hours.

I woke up with a new found energy and have been frantically cleaning the boat all morning. I went to shore for a shower and to hand ash a load of laundry by an outdoor spigot.

It’s just approaching mid-afternoon. I’m planning on taking a nap and spending the next few days cleaning and doing damage control.

I am in paradise! Even though it is possible to fly here, I believe paradise is reserved for those who earn it. I am truly a happy man.

I wish you could all feel my feeling just for a moment.

This place is sooooo beautiful.

Peace, Love, and goat meat!

Alex

I don’t have words!

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It was a wet and squally morning. My first real dangerous thing happened just after I sent out this morning’s log.

I have a self-leveling radar mount. It is connected via a stainless steel tube to the back stay. Well, the tube snapped and my radar dome went lashing back and forth in the wild seas. I was worried it was going to break my backstay. I managed to grab my Gerber tool, and over the course of 20 minutes disassembled the dome, and got it down. I got pretty beat up and bruised during the process trying to protect the dome and my backstay. I have to figure out what to do, now my radar really doesn’t work, it was kind of half-assed before, but now I have nothing.

I saw a sailboat on the horizon. For some reason I knew who it was even though I thought he was still a few hundred miles behind me. I called “Liberty” on the VHF, and my very good friend Aki replied. What are the chances that we would meet to make landfall together, he left Panama a week after I did.

As we approached Hive Oa I was in total awe. The only word I can think of to describe these beautiful volcanic mountains is “majestic”! I’ve never seen a more beautiful site. The smell of earth and fire filled my lungs, and I enjoyed the sensation like one would savor the taste of the finest wine. The peaks pierce the clouds as mist rolls down the steep cliffs and onto the water.

I am such a lucky man!

I’m going to go and try and hunt down a steak for dinner with Aki and his crew.

The anchorage is small and crowded yet amazingly peaceful and serene. I have a stern hook out and I’m anchored about 200 feet from shore.

I’m sure I’ll sleep like royalty tonight.

I’ll get pictures up as soon as I can find a connection.

It’s nice to be still.

Peace everyone.

– Alex

LAND HO!!!

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Not much sleep last night.

I’ve been up drinking coffee all night, blaring rock and roll “Riding the storm out”, and freshly sailing on the faces of squalls.

The squalls have been back to back, and the larger ones blowing over 20kts. I have no reefs in as I’m trying to make time. Namaste and I have been averaging 5.5 – 6.5 knots all night. I can almost do this in my sleep now!

The sun is just coming up, the seas are lively, and I feel so very alive!

Just as the light was washing away the blackness, a black spot stayed on the horizon. Squinting, I was taxing my eyes to see through the rain.  I never expected to notice Hive Oa from 30 miles out, “is it real…”, “yes”, a huge volcanic island! A moment later I noticed the Island of Mohotani on my port side.

I hate to admit it because I’m such a tuff and burly sailing machine, but I was in tears, crying like a baby. The rain washed them from my face, and only the sailing Gods could hear my laughter as I howled at the morning sky.

I really don’t know what to say. I feel so small. I’m just a tiny speck on this vast ocean, but this little speck is sailing into Traitors Bay, and anchoring in the Taahuku anchorage today!

I’ll write more tonight, I want to go back out and gaze at my beautiful prize.

Wow…, God I feel good!

Alex

Maybe fixed

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Okay so I don’t know much about electronics but I needed the phone to work, the last was a test message.

I took my old broken charger from the phone and tested it’s output with a meter. The output was less then the battery output, and my battery is dead. I thought perhaps that if I connect the positive and negative to the battery terminals, squeeze the battery back in, and plug in the second charger it might work. I don’t think I could hurt anything since the voltage is lower, well, guess what, it works, Mcgiver strikes again! The phone needs to have 2 chargers plugged in, but what the hell right?

I don’t know if I should slow the boat down, I guess Ill make the decision in the morning. I don’t want to make landfall at night. I’ve got 97.3 miles to go and its 4pm.

I turned on my refrigeration today and had the first cold beer in more then a month, YUMMMM. I’ve got two lines out and hopefully I’ll get a big fish or two to keep me in food for a few when I get to Hive Oa.

I’m hoping I don’t fry the phone.

Alex

129.2 miles 2 go

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Life’s funny.

I’ve been so focused on my destination, getting there, making it, now I’m troubled at the idea of leaving the refuge of the Pacific. These past 6 weeks, protected by the isolation of the sea, have enlightened me to a few things. I may not know what I want, but I have a better sense of self!

The power of persuasion, marketing, brain washing, society, government, religion! All tell us who we are, and what is “right and wrong”. They make us question ourselves, and entrust our sense of self to something “better” as if we are not capable of making our own decisions.

I have 2 warrants out for my arrest in Maryland because I refused to pay fines ($500) for not wearing a life vest and reckless endangerment while jet skiing. “To whom” I asked the policeman, “to yourself” he replied. I was just having a nice day with my family playing on the river. “how dare you…, if you think there is a force of nature that will make me pay this your sadly mistaken”!  “Then your failure to appear will result in a warrant for your arrest”! I became hostel as stated yelling, before I was arrested, and the situation got out of hand, my cousin Steve stepped in. His brother is a senior cop and was a friend of the officer.  Steve separated us and sent me back to the truck, and no, I wasn’t drinking, and no I’ve never paid it!

Speaking of drinking, my X fiancé was given a DUI after having 2 glasses of wine with dinner. The whole process cost over $10,000. What has happened to our freedom, have we forgotten?

I don’t need the “guilt machines”. I am a good person and successful despite the fact that I’m financially impoverished. I will not be controlled! I don’t need to wear designer labels, perfumes, or drive a car. I don’t want to work my life away to buy a home that is not really mine. Try not paying your taxes and see what happens. I will not end up on my death bed thinking “I wish I had”!

A quote:

“… the strongest man in the world is he who stands most alone.”

–        Henric Ibsen

–        An Enemy of the people

How many times a day do you see billboards, hear ads on the radio, watch them on T.V, or see them in magazines? We think we block them out but we really don’t. Society tells us who we are, what we should smell like, dress like, and how we should act. I can’t believe people are sitting around watching “reality TV”, Jessica Simpson, Paris Hilton…, really? Are these the role models we want for our children? I have a strong will, and even I was controlled by these dark forces, thank God I’ve broken away.

I know so many people who tell me they can’t go cruising because they have children and need to keep them in school? Do you think that the education provided to our children by our system is that good? I’m sorry, I don’t have children, but I would hope I would feel a responsibility to educate them myself. And what a better way to do it then showing them the world.

If I wasn’t making landfall on a beautiful and isolated south Pacific Island I would be in a sheer sense of panic. I’ve grown accustom to the peace and living in tune with nature. I spent most of my life in either New York City or Los Angeles. I don’t know that I could ever live in a big city again. I fear that society would strike its blow, and Alex Dorsey would be gone forever.  

Have you ever driven through Vermont? It took me a while to figure out why I liked it so much, and then someone told me “There are no billboards”, “brilliant” I thought.

I guess I’m babbling again.

I hope no one took offense of the religion reference. I don’t associate God with religion. I believe that organized religion separates man, while spirituality unites mankind. I believe it is fundamental to us as individuals to find our own path in life. The meaning of God should be as unique to us as our fingerprints. But then what the hell do I know, I’m just one guy floating around in the sea in search of peace.

“but I still haven’t found what I’m looking for”

–        U2

Peace everyone.

-Alex

A beautiful day!

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Not much to report today, it has been quiet.

I inflated the dink, and caught a small tuna for lunch.

I’ve been very tired and unable to sleep, so much on my mind.

These are the last days of this incredible passage. It’s been amazing…, and it’s been crappy…, it’s been my Pacific crossing and I’ll never forget it.

I feel close to the sea today.

Sleep well everyone.

Cheers from Namaste.

Alex

Fishing boat!

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I came across a fishing boat last night. I saw the lights on the horizon about 23:30. I tried hailing them in French and English…, nothing. After a few I tried Spanish and got a hit. It was an Ecuadorian fishing boat ”far from home” I thought. I could see large plooms of light in the water from squid.

The night was a tuff one, maybe an hour sleep at best. Namaste is doing that deep rolling thing. Once again I found myself on the floor covered in books and CDs. When I’m in the Marquesas I’m going to have a big bond fire and burn what I can’t give away, I have too much crap in my life. I also need to net my bookshelves as the bungee doesn’t work worth a damn.

The seas and wind are back up and I’m bombing along at 4.5 – 5 kts with 200 miles to go. I’ve learned a lot about who I am during these weeks at sea. What do I really want out of life? What will I do after Project BlueSphere?

I’m a revolutionary at heart and I thought about going home and starting a civil war, “nahhhh, too old” I thought. How about presidency, “God, who would want that job”! Then it dawned on me…, I want to be the first global dictator (kookoo)!

Well…, maybe not, but I’m thinking bigger boat. Something big enough for me to have a full time partner and still be able to charter (47-50 feet). Sounds like I might have to actually go back to work unless a network picks me up or I get good video distribution. I still have a few friends in the industry who will shop my next video as soon as I’m done with it. Speaking of the video, I’m really happy I didn’t rush it; I have some really nice footage from the crossing and Galapagos. With what I shoot in the Marquesas I’ll be able to cut a very piece together. But I bet I’ll have to go back to work.

If I can hold this pace I can make it in roughly 52 more hours, I believe that will put me in Traitors Bay on Monday.

Next time I do an ocean crossing I will do better. I could have done a better job provisioning and stowing. I never recovered from the beating at Punta Mala (my first night), and as a result have not had access to my bed. I have no lee cloth where I’m sleeping in the salon. The v-birth is nice in rollie conditions as well as on a port or starboard tack.

Cheers from the South Pacific.

Alex

Cooking!

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Lon -133.855556

I should have been focusing more on cooking during my trip. I have been all 2 willing to open a can of beans and eat it cold with a spoon or heat up a ramen. The thing is…, I’m a decent cook. Last night I made a really nice Pad Tia octopus over Japanese short grain rice with ginger. I tend to lean toward the Asian influences in cooking. I’ll give you all one of my cooking secrets, peanut butter and Chinese hot oil. Boil yourself up some rice or soba/udon noodles. Once cooked mix them with peanut butter and Chinese hot oil (the red stuff). Add shrimp, chicken, or octopus (mine is in a can), or squid and mix with bean sprouts and sesame seeds. You will be amazed how good it is. If you want something with a bit more of an American feel mix peanut butter with cooked spaghetti or other pasta and add diced peppers, pine nuts, beans and other fresh veggies. This makes a really nice cold pasta dish, you’ll love it, trust me.

The sun is out however there is rain to the north. I had a nice nights sleep but I’m getting out of bed really soar. I have spent 2 much time in the horizontal position. During much of the day I’m stretched out and reading. It’s hard 2 exercise with the motion of the boat, standing is also a chore.

I’m really looking forward to walking and getting a break from the motion.

I’ve been thinking of my voyage. I believe that the ocean is a great teacher and Namaste my classroom. Everyone gets a different experience, and perhaps the one we are meant to get. On the other hand I may have left a bit early in the season but that concept isn’t as romantic. During the last month I’ve been sick (not sea sick), and suffered 10 or so days of bad and wet weather. As of late my seas have been disturbed from the cyclones to the south, and the trade winds unstable. It is what it is, and I have learned some valuable lessons about myself and my boat.

I’m in the final stretch with just about 300 miles to go, I would think 4 more days at the most but I’ve been wrong many times in the past.

How lucky I am to be experiencing such a wonderful journey.

Take the bad on the chin and relish the good.  

Peace, love, and life!

Alex

Better!

Lat -10.128056
Lon -132.587778

398 miles to go!

I feel much better today.

I was having problems with blotchy vision yesterday, I think from reading so much and constant movement.

Last night I focused on trying to make a nice meal. I made tortellini with olive oil, sun dried tomatoes, and parmesan. I also found a can of salmon & garlic stuffed olives as an appetizer.

I did spend the night trying to stay on my bunk again (the wind & waves freshened), but I’m learning to do this in my sleep, the half sleeping tablet helped get me into REM.

Need to get a bigger monitor for my nav/comm computer mine is tiny (for a car) and hard to write on.

I’m going to attempt and do some laundry today.

I’m starting to think of my arrival.

Cheers.

Alex

ARrGGGG!

Lat -10.077778
Lon 131.072222

Today is a carbon copy of yesterday, and yesterday a carbon copy of the previous week. The movie “Joe verses the Volcano” comes to mind as I feel I’m suffering from a brain cloud and trapped somewhere between a life of redundant madness and the glory of the South Pacific, just like Joe. Have you seen it?

Occasionally I’m finding I need to take a moment to gather my wits as I’m feeling a bit claustrophobic and surrounded by a very large mote. I’m not worried or anything, just happy this feeling didn’t decide to pop up 1500 miles ago where I would surly be looking at a long time before landfall, 480 miles to go, tick tock alex!

I have learned why I have such difficulty with my harness; I have a problem with restraint. I do use it when weather is particularly bad, however when I feel the tug of its secure tether the small hairs on the back of my neck stand on end. I don’t feel as I’m doing anything dangerous and I’m sure statistically driving down the freeway is much more dangerous than life on Namaste even without my harness.

It is a beautiful day and I am moving along at a steady pace of 3-3.5kts. Reading is a good distraction from the boredom but every once and a while I have to put my book down to fight off a little dizziness from the motion and close focus of my book. I hope the anchorage a Hiva Oa isn’t too rollie, if it is I may pith a tent on the beach. I need to consciously make something to eat because I’ve lost interest in eating, or preparing food. I have noticed that I’ve lost a few pounds.  

I’m not returning my Instant messages because it is hard to focus on my small monitor (which is working) at the nav station. I think I may need new glasses, or perhaps a stable environment, I don’t know yet. I’ll get back to everyone as soon as I can, and yes I do like the instant messages and look forward to them all day.   

I think I’m learning something about my boundaries on a sailboat.

I don’t mean to be down; I’m just ready to get there.

alex

So much time!

Lat -10.092778
Lon -129.715

I know so many sailors who brave the oceans, cry like babies when it gets bad, and then tell stories of strength “Ahhh pieceacake”, I vow not to do this. It is important to me to honestly communicate my experiences onboard my little ship, an experiment if you wish.  I always wondered what it would be like to set sail upon the open world. What would I see? What would I learn? Who would I become? Are questions that drifted through the corners of my imagination for most of my life? One thing I have learned is that the world is not filled with enemies and that we should venture to see it.

I’ve always been fascinated by solitary confinement & castaways. What happens to a man when locked away or stranded? What would I learn about myself, what walls would be broken?

 

The miles are grinding slowly once again. When I was looking forward to crossing my 1000 mile mark the wind slowed to make it as painful a process as possible. The same is happening with my 500 mile mark. The wind is but a breath; and I find myself trying to figure out the meaning of my meager existence once again.

I didn’t sleep much last night, not because of the weather, but because I spent most of the night wandering the halls of my memory castle. Some doors are locked and the memories behind them hard to look at, but just a peek.

I think we (humans) tend to burry memories we are not happy with. Perhaps the key to freedom lay in these memories? Denial…, what a bitter pill to swallow! I’m not happy with all of my past. I’ve hurt people that I’ve loved, and my carrier was far to important to me in my 20’s and early 30’s, I was so driven that I walked all over people that I cared about and I’m ashamed of it! The scary thing is I haven’t done anything that unusual. Hurting people we love is common practice and we often forget what is truly important and place money and success above friendship and love.

I think we all, especially men, tend to cram things we don’t want to see into a tiny steel box in our soul and forget about them. Just like Davie Jones I too cut my heart out many years ago, put it in a box, and covered it in the deepest hole I could find. Problem is I don’t know where I put the damn key. It is important that I find it. It’s occurred to me that I might be terribly lost. What am I really looking for? Could I have been running away from myself under the air of adventure?

I’m not a religious man, however I conceder myself spiritual. Many people ask God for forgiveness, how convenient and easy, how often do we ask it of ourselves for it?

I guess the point of this log is nothing more then me realizing that I can’t change the past, however I can sculpt my future, and I’m eager and waiting with chisel in hand.

I’m very weary of posting some logs but I feel a strange responsibility. I really don’t know why I’ve chosen to share my personal thoughts; perhaps my candor will help others?

I managed to fix the autopilot today. I also changed the oil and I’m cheating a bit and running the motor. I have plenty of fuel; I just dread the cost of replacing it @ $5.00 a gallon.

I am hungry for conversation, red meat, fresh fruits and vegetables. Sometime in the night I will pass my 500 mile mark, not much further.

U2 said it best, “But I still haven’t found what I’m looking for”!

Peace.

– Alex

A plan meant to be broken!

Lat -10.100833
Lon -128.685278

I spent the day studying cruising guides of the South Pacific. How will I spent the next year?

I have to conceder a few things in my plans. I only have 3 months in French Polynesia which includes the Marquesas Islands, the Tuamoto Archipelago, and the Society Islands which include Tahiti and Bora Bora. I also need to be out of Pacific Cyclone season, or held up somewhere safe by November.

After the Marquesas I will check out the Tuamotos. The condition of my radar has a lot to do with exploring the Tuamotos. The archipelago resides over a span of 1000 miles. The atolls are close together with swift currents between them. One can only enter the lagoons at slack tide due to extreme currant, and anchoring opportunities outside the atolls are scarce. This coupled with the fact that the atolls are only as visible as the tallest palm means that one can only see them from about 9 miles away. If exploring the Tuamotos, one must be prepared for night crossings in tight proximity to hull crushing reefs and surf. The Tuamotos are also known as the “Dangerous Archipelago”.  One must conceder all of these variables coupled with the fact that your GPS is useless.  The GPS will tell me exactly where I am, however the charts are not so accurate. Radar is the key and the only way to transverse the archipelago.

I want to be in Tahiti for my birthday. My birthday resides on Bastelle day which is like the French forth of July. I spent my 18th birthday in Paris and it was quite a party. I never paid for a drink and was the topic of many toasts. Bastelle day is quite an occasion in Tahiti and I don’t want to miss it. I would also like to see Bora Bora; many say it is the most beautiful island in the world. Anyway, I have 3 months to wrap all of that up.

After French Polynesia I will visit the Cook Islands, The kingdom of Tonga, and then leave Polynesia for Melanesia and Fiji. At that point I will need to decide to sail for New Zealand, Australia, or Papa New Guinea. Much will depend on the state of Namaste and my financial situation. If I go to New Zealand or Australia I want to take some time to rest and work on Namaste. By that point I should also have all my footage for a third video. All plans are ment to be broken. I’m not counting on anything. I’m also thinking of making my way into Micronesia and working my way towards Japan. So many ideas. I have no idea which way the winds of my life will blow.  Makes it interesting doesn’t it?

Not so much wind today. Coupled with Namaste’s dirty bottom we only made 80 miles in the last 24 hours, 622 more to go.

I started another book (Fever), I’m having a hard t1me getting into it. I would love to shop through used book stores in New York City for a few days to purchase literature. I need a dose of solid brain food. The action books are all that seem to circulate with the cruisers.

Anyway, I’m charging up the batteries before I check in with my buddy Chris on 16534 @ 00:00 Zulu, then with my friend Aki on 21.397 @ 01:00 Zulu. Aki is a few hundred miles behind, we should make landfall at Hive Oa around the same time.

I zoomed out on my GPS today, man…, I’ve really sailed far!

Peace, love, and lazy days reading.

Alex

I am the sea!

Lat -10.064444
Lon -128.173333

And the sea iz me!

They say “Like attracts like”, “if you lay down with dogs you wake up with fleas”, implying that we become like our surrounding and the people we surround ourselves with. It is surly true. I am quite careful with the company I keep, and I have left many “drinking buddies” in my wake. I just don’t have time for people who drag me down, life is too damn short. Karma is another thing. If you produce good energy, it will surround you and return. I don’t try and seem “above anyone” if anything I try and keep a humble demeanor and a lo-profile. And I try and go out of my way to help people.

I find myself in a symbiotic relationship with the sea. My mood swings with the mood of the sea. If it is confused by storms to the south, so am I. If it is calm and happy, so am I. I feel as if I am in extremely good company. “Live by the sword, die by the sword” right?

My eyes opened just as the first glimmer of light kissed the sky. The sea is calm and I am making 4 knots. I may be loosing it in some people’s eyes; however I would argue that actually “I’m finding it”! The first thing I did this morning is start the day by singing sea shanties (spelling) at the top of my lungs.   I peered outside and decided today is the most beautiful day of my life! How can the sky be so clear, the sea so blue?

My smile was as grand, and expansive as the Pacific itself. I managed to drink my entire cup of coffee staring at the painted morning sky. I am the sea, and the sea is me!

Speaking of karma, I’ve been contacted by a very generous subscriber. I’m receiving a gift from a total stranger. Maybe the world is not lost after all and kindness and peace will prevail? He has sent me an ipod! Actually he sent it to my friend in Tokyo who will bring it to me in a few weeks. In return for the ipod I will be looking for Tiki carvings and Tapa cloth as I travel through the Marquesas. Not a bad deal if you ask me. I’ve wanted an ipod for so long. Even if 20 grand fell in my lap tomorrow I wouldn’t buy one. I would use the money for Namaste and video equipment; I really want an underwater housing. My CD collection has gone to hell as CD media delaminates in this hot and moist environment. Oh 2 have an ipod, I have over 80 gigs of music on my computer.

Today is a good day. I may take a quick swim, not to clean the bottom, but just the prop. I’m sure it is unbalanced by growth and I don’t want to damage my shaft or tranny as I enter Hive Oa. I will surly attach myself with a line.

Peace, Love, and random acts of kindness.

Alex

Running lights

Lat -10.150833
Lon -126.725833

With wind comes waves, its just the way it is. My waves are coming aft of my port beam, and are 7-9 feet tall. In all the conditions I’ve experienced on this trip I’ve never been worried about the safety of myself or my boat. The waves can be HORRIBLY ANNOYING though. Namaste has been moving along at 4.2 – 5 knots for the past 18 hours. It is a relief to be making way again, however the motion is shattering my already thin nerves. I’ve met a lot of sailors tougher then me, I’d say I am in the mid-80% of the toughness scale, but I am ready for land.

Last night I turned on my running lights just after dusk. I didn’t notice any color coming from the bow. I checked and only my rear white was burning. I have a second set of colored running lights on the mast in international configuration (red over green, sailing machine). I flipped the switch and only the green is burning. How many more little things can wear at my nerves? I know…, how about my second autopilot breaking! This one broke in exactly the same place the last one broke. There is a pin that holds the autopilot to the boat (not the tiller end). And there is a small pin holding it in place, that small pin creeps out of its hole and getting it back in is no easy task, I think it was pressed in by machine.

I had to make 3 cups of coffee this morning in order to get 2/3’s of one into me. I have to hold the espresso pot on the burner because the gimbals broke last week. The first cup spilled when the autopilot fell apart and I had to make a dash for the helm, the second one spilled when I took my hand off the pot for a moment to put some powdered milk in my cup. I lost an eighth trying to pour the coffee in the cup, and another bit to a new burn on my leg.

Anyway, I spent the night trying to stay on my bunk. I turned on my steaming light so I at least have a white burning on both ends. I am far from shipping lanes, the closest one to me was Brisbane Australia to Panama, but I left that behind about 2500 miles ago. My steaming light illuminates my sail and is quite visible at night.  

These last miles are seemingly the hardest. I’m exhausted, physically and mentally. However the day is beautiful and I’m happy to be making good way.

“A watched pot never boils”, I must stop looking at my distance to go, 731.4 miles!

I know it will be worth it.

Alex

Wind!

Lat -10.221389
Lon -125.564167

The wind kicked up to 11-15, if it holds I’ll be looking at days over 100 miles again, 800 to go.

I got a chance do some more writing on my next article; I’ll submit it to L&A shortly after I arrive in the Marquesas. Hopefully I’ll find good internet for uploading pictures, otherwise…???

I must say I’m getting worn out, I’m tired. I’ve got a number of boat bruises & bites. The water burn on my leg is peeling and itching like mad. Namaste is doing well but showing wear. I’ll need a new VHF, hopefully I can fix the radar, I know I can fix the stove, and I’ll need to replace my solar charge controller. More then anything Namaste needs a good cleaning. She never really recovered from the Punta Mala mess more then 3000 miles ago.  

I’m really looking forward to sitting at a table, eating a real meal, and not moving. If there is an inexpensive hotel room I might retreat for a night.

Peace everyone.

Alex

Cold?

Lat -10.276389
Lon -125.045278

Well it was an interesting night.

I couldn’t fall asleep so I watched part of “Pirates of the Caribbean 2”. I don’t think the island with the cannibals was shot in the Caribbean, it looked like a south pacific volcanic island to me?

I probably fell asleep around midnight. Between midnight and 15:00 I had to tend to the radar’s perimeter alarm at least on 5 different occasions as rain was in the area. As soon as I would fall asleep the alarm would sound, it was like a “don’t sleep” alarm. Every time I got up to look at the radar I would either decrease the perimeter or try to tune out the rain so I could get some sleep. At 16:30 I was up and in panic mode. Over the years of waking up in panic mode I’ve trained myself with a .30 second delay, “okay…, think, don’t act!” I was sure a cyclone was on top of me. The rain was torrential and I’m sure the wind over 25kts, I had full canvas flying.

“Cyclones don’t come this far east, It’s just a squall. You’ve dealt with hundreds of squalls, just roll in the jib and reef the main. This is a good thing. Squalls are a healthy part of the trade wind system, you will have wind tomorrow.” I went outside to tend to Namaste.

As soon as I released the jib I slipped back and the sheets from both sides flew from their blocs and were violently lashing at the squall. I could almost hear Namaste screaming “Back, Back” like a lion tamer. I quickly reeled in the reefing line disarming Namaste of her weapons.

All in all getting the jib in only took my .45 seconds. Within another minute I had 3 reefs in the main and the wind was fading.

As I sat on deck in the torrential downpour I realized I was shaking from cold. “It’s 80 degrees, how can I be so cold” I thought? Am I really this used to the warm weather?

I came inside to dry off, make coffee, and check the radar for more squalls.

I think my radar is screwed. It seems to only register a few degrees of a 360 degree sweep, and erase the information with the next sweep. I really depend on my radar for its perimeter alarm. I don’t know that I will attempt to explore the Tuamotoes with out it. The atolls are low and only visible from as little as 9 miles away; I could easily put Namaste on a reef at night as the charts can be drastically off for the area. Perhaps I can fix it? I will need to check it out at anchor as I will need to disassemble the dome.

Another night in the log books.

Anyway I’m hoping for wind today, only 841 miles to go.

Pease, love, and squalls.

Alex

Drifter

Lat -10.195833
Lon -124.201389

Thank God for my drifter! I’ve had to scrape the last 100 miles off the surface of the Pacific with my fingernails. 888 miles to go!

I got up this morning and Namaste was hobbling along at just over a knot.

I noticed a fare amount of growth on the bottom yesterday and toyed with the idea of doing a quick clean today but I had a shark dream last night so I’m not too jazzed with the idea now. In my dream I was playing near the boat on a very small inflatable (maybe 3’) out at sea. The large waves would roll me and the inflatable, I was having a blast. I was thinking “how cool, I can’t wait to write about this in a log” then I looked under the water at a large great white and calculated If I could make it back to the boat. I didn’t pinch myself, but quickly woke up. Instead I raised the drifter just as the first light touched the darkness and have been reading ever since. I’ve never read so much in my life as in this last month.

When I was provisioning in Panama I bought some vacuum-sealed steaks. They are pre-cooked and quite salty but hit the spot when you want a dose of red meat. I’ve been saving my last one for a few weeks and was going to eat it to celebrate breaking a 1000 miles. They were supposed to be good for 3-4 weeks without refrigeration, it’s been around 5. I opened it today and it seemed fine. There was the smallest trace of something smelling bad and I thought it was my imagination. Just as I was about to cook it I threw it into the sea. The last thing I need is to be sick again. I’m really craving red meat and fresh stuff, oh well; it is not so far away. I have a few cans of meat on board; maybe I’ll try to brave one for dinner, “YUCK”!

These past few days are the first time I’ve really seen the sea the color it is in post cards. It’s quite blue. I can only imaging what it will look like draped around a South Pacific island, tick tock Alex, tick tock.

Anyway, the drifter is calling me for a trim, I’m making 3kts..

Cheers everyone, and greetings from the deep blue sea.

Alex

So slow!

Lat -10.275833
Lon -123

I just got off the SSB and learned that there are 2 cyclones to the south of me stealing my wind. I am making way slowly at about 3 knots, 950 miles to go. I’ve been informed wind will be scarce for the next few days, hopefully back to full trade status by the weekend.

The bracket on my auto pilot broke (the part that connects to the tiller), but luckily I had a spare and fixed the situation quickly. I also see that a clamp on my boom has broken; I think I can fix it by lashing the area with line it can wait till tomorrow.

I worked on my inflatable today patching what I hope is the last leak. I still want to paint the floorboards and try to squeeze another season out of her.

I’ve spent most of the day reading and trying not to focus on the fact I’m creeping along at a snails pace. I talked to a friend on the SSB who is sailing for Hive Oa and he still has over 3000 miles to go, made me feel better.

Not much else to report today. I’m feeling really tired thought-out the day I think it is from the lack of exercise.

The sunset is particularly beautiful tonight; I’m sailing directly towards it.

I’ll open a can of something for dinner and return to the Sahara with Dirk Pit for the rest of the evening.

Cheers.

Alex

Ghosts

Lat -10.302222
Lon -122.379722

988 miles to go, YEEEEHAAAAA!

Just a warning, you’re going to have to endure more of my rambling. You must realize my logs are not only for your benefit, but are my personal diary.

I took down the drifter at around ten last night. A fat rain cloud appeared, dropped three drops of rain and produced 13kts of wind for a 4 minute period. I should have left the drifter up, but I wasn’t going to fly it again once it was down. I had been sleeping outside to be closer to the environment as I wanted to wake quickly with any weather change. After poling the jib, I went below, checked the radar, and quickly fell asleep again.

I woke at 5 this morning (pacific time) to an odd “THUD”.

I smelled cigarettes and herd voices in the distance. What was the sound that woke me I thought? I didn’t think it odd hearing voices or smelling cigarette smoke as it is quite common for people to pass close in a dingy when one is at anchor. The sea was very calm and it did indeed feel like I was at anchor. Another 15 seconds passed and I realized where I was. I quickly bounced up for a look around. Nothing but a half moon high above, and a sky full of stars. My radar was clear and I hopped back into bed.

I wasn’t really tired anymore so I decided to remember once again. Actually let me back up a few days and tell you how this whole memory thing started.

I was reading “Hannibal Rising” which I really enjoyed by the way. It is about how Hannibal Lecter became to be and told the story of his childhood on the eastern front during WW2. Hannibal was a gifted and intelligent child, and had a wonderful private teacher as a boy. One day his teacher asked if he wanted to remember everything, “of course” young Hannibal replied. “Well if that’s the case you must construct a memory palace”. He went on to explain how a memory palace was a place in your mind where you stored memories like in a library. If you wanted to remember something you walked into the appropriate room like “mathematics” and filed the memory in the proper place. This way it was easy to visually find the memory you want and access it at a later time.

I found this fascinating concept and have been constructing my memory castle (mine is a castle) ever since.

Every time I visit my memory castle I enter by horse-drawn carriage. I have a remote in my pocket that lowers the bridge so we can pass over the mote, and only I have this remote. It’s usually a dramatic dark and stormy night, however I have passed in the day and the surrounding forest is quite beautiful. I’m always kind to my driver “Take the week off I’ll be here a while” who I suspect is an old friend, however I haven’t seen his face yet. When I push open the 15 foot doors I smile at the gargoyle to my left and thank him for keeping my hose safe. When I enter the foyer it’s kind of a mess. Skate boards and yoyo’s litter the floor amongst a backdrop of suits of armor and video games. I always change into my house shoes which are a pair of black Converse all star high-tops. If you have ever been to the New York City public library you will have an idea of what my foyer looks like.  Stairs lead up to halls which are marked “people, places, things” amongst endless halls which I will label as I need them. Every time I visit I try to clean up by grabbing something off of my messy floor and filing it.

This morning it was a yoyo that sparked as you used it. “Where do I put this I thought”? I strolled down the “places” hallways until I found a room for my grandmother’s house in New Jersey. My mother and I lived there for a brief period after her divorce from my father, I was about 5. I loved that YoYo and often slept with it. During this time I had a lot of nightmares and was afraid to sleep, probably having to do with my parents divorce. I tried my hardest to stay awake every night, but it never worked, they always came to get me and I would wake up screaming and crying.

My uncle Sasha (Alex) is a really cool guy. He was a total hippie and was, and still is one of my favorite people. If you’re looking for something out of the ordinary, or an old comic book you should check out his site, I think it is www.neetstuff.com.

Anyway, it was my uncle who taught me I could control my dreams. “You can always just pinch yourself if you think you’re dreaming and you’ll wake up, but the fun part is, knowing you’re dreaming”. If he told me this today I’d ask if he was tripping, but at the time I took his advice, and believe it or not, it worked.

I was being chased down a street one night and realized I was dreaming. I turned around and faced the dark figure that was chasing me. It was this moment in my life that my brass balls dropped, and I’ve had them ever since, I stood firm!

The dark figure quickly scurried down an unlit alley way, I pinched myself, and I was awake.

I owe more to my uncle then I ever thought. I haven’t talked to him in a while but will try and contact him as soon as I have access to a phone.

I guess the moral of the story is “take time for yourself”! We concern ourselves with so many un-important things we forget ourselves and who we are, and why we are. Try to build a memory place when you have time, perhaps before sleeping. It beats thinking of work the next day, and I think it is a healthy mental exercise.

I’m not concerned with the wind speed any more. This is a very important time in my life and I believe Namaste and the sea have conspired, and are getting me to my destination at precisely the proper pace. 

Oh…, when I went to make coffee I found out what the “THUD” was. My stove wore through the aluminum material where it gimbals and dropped a few inches on one side. Cooking will be a little harder from now on. Once I’m at anchor I can fix it by drilling new gimbal holes.

Peace, Love, and Memories.

Alex

Damage

Lat -10.214722
Lon -121.661944

No more then ten knots of breeze today. Most of the time it has been blowing 5-8. The drifter is up and poled out to the starboard, and the main boomed out to the port. I am sailing “wing on wing” making about 3.5 knots. I’m going to break a rule and fly my drifter tonight. I really was trying to break 1000 miles by midnight but it will not happen. However when the sun rises tomorrow I’ll be counting down in triple digits.

Just as I was thinking what to do for dinner tonight I caught a nice Dorado. I pan fried it in olive oil with garlic, onions, and lime, it was awesome. Of course I had a Guinness with it.

All in all damage has been minimal. A few days ago I noticed a 2 foot piece of aluminum tube come out of the boom and fall into the sea. Everything seems to be working fine though. I think it had to do with helping keep the reefing lines clear and separated. A piece of my wood sole broke, and today the VHF went funny. It seems to work fine, just no more squelch, always a static hiss.

I’m deep in my Sahara adventure with Dirk Pitt and will read until my eyes drop.

Does anyone know what time zone I’m in?

Peace from the Pacific.

– Alex

  

Oatmeal?

Lat -10.345278
Lon -121.07

Is it just me or has anyone else noticed how ridiculous instant oatmeal is? All it is, is oats in little packages with sugar and chemical flavoring for ten times the price. It’s really not that hard to take a handful of oats and throw in a handful of nuts, raisins, and sugar before nuking it.

That was random!

I didn’t sleep much. I had 3-5 knots from the stern. The wave action rolled me through the night. At one point I was on the floor with books and CDs on my head again. I really need to net my library or lighten it. I found myself growling at the mess as a mad dog might.

I was hoping to announce breaking the 1000 mile barrier this morning but the decrease in wind shows that I still have 66 miles to go, hopefully tonight.

As soon as the sun was rising I was trying to get my drifter up, before coffee, mistake. As soon as I raised the halyard the drifter flew to starboard, I rigged it for the port side. If we take into account the fact I never make mistakes, it must have been the wind that shifted, right? When I doused the drifter it got wet and went under almost pulling me off of the bowsprit. I have a nice rope burn on my left shoulder. I know I should have had my harness on! After getting everything in order and re-flying it on the starboard side I’m scraping 3.2kts out of 8, I guess I can’t complain. I’m usually quite graceful flying my drifter by myself. I guess the lesson is not to attempt it before being awake with coffee in my gut.

I was hoping to make the last 1000 miles in 8 days but perhaps not. I’m in no rush; I’ll easily make Hive-Oa before my friend arrives on the 28th.

I got an email from my friend Aki on Liberty. He is roughly 400 miles behind me trying to find me.

I hope everyone had a happy Easter.

Sail far and live slowly.

Alex

Speed

Lat -10.176111
Lon -120.106944

No speed records for the past few days, 90 miles yesterday, today about the same. I’m hoping for a bit more wind tomorrow.

I had a fabulous nights sleep and slept past the sunrise.  

Today has been 10kts from the east and blue skies. The main is up all the way up and out to the starboard. The jib is all the way out and poled, but luffing away. If I roll it up Namaste waddles terribly, so I leave it out and let it slap away, it’s “staying” the boat.

This morning I made oatmeal with flax, raisins, and walnuts for breakfast.  For lunch I fried up some onions & potatoes and added a can of beans. My onions and potatoes are on their last legs. I need to cut out the bad parts.

For all intensive purposes I have been at sea for a month (18 days from Galapagos).  My legs yearn to walk, and my stomach desires a nice sit-down meal, not this Easter. I can hardly wait to lay my eyes on the shore.

I spent much of the day, day-dreaming and working on my memories. My earliest memory puts me at about three and a half when I cut my hand open on some glass in central park. Traumatic memories seem to have more of a dig in the memory bank.

I started Clive Cussler’s “Sahara” today. On the front it says it is to be a major motion picture starring Matthew McConughey, did that ever happen, and was it a good movie?

Happy Easter everyone.

– Alex

A gift

Lat -9.9175
Lon -118.6175

The cyclone has brought me a gift…, peace.

Today as how I envisioned sailing across the pacific. The sea was electric blue and the sky clear as crystal. The seas calm, and a slight breeze (8kts) pushed me along serenely.

My day was timeless.

I read, listened to music, played my guitar, and spend hours trying to reconstruct memories. Many of my memories have faded with the years and I want them back. If you consciously work at it you can keep them but the forgotten memories fade and I have lost many to neglect.

My SSB hasn’t been working well or propagation is really bad. I try and check in with my buddy Chris on Contigo every day, but no joy today, just static.

I expect tonight will be calm along with tomorrow. I only made 90 miles in the last 24 hours.

I got an email from a buddy who has made landfall in the Marquesas, he says it beets all of his expectations, and worth every drop of effort.

I just finished “Hannibal Rising”, and need to finger through my library and find another book.

I finished my last orange today, time to tap into the coconuts.

Peace, Love, and Coconuts.

Alex

Insane!

Lat -9.837222
Lon 118.109167

If you think you going to be able to come here and just read about weather conditions and how wonderful sailing is, “Wrong”, you have to endure the entire Alex Dorsey experience. A quote:

“Let us conceder that we are all partially insane. It will explain us to each other.

–        Mark Twain

I was happy to get my log updated with my shorting out sat-phone yesterday. I thought it would be my last transmission until the Marquesas.

If you saw my sat phone you could learn a little about who I am. It is bandaged and the bottom is glued together (5200), and the antenna partially burned. It has been through the ringer with me and I have had to fix it a number of times. It has become an old friend, or arch-rival depending on the occasion.

What do they call it when one shakes an infant to death? Well I almost killed my sat phone yesterday however I couldn’t find a good handhold for strangulation, so I shook away, AHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!

My phone and I both have circuitry issues; however I was determined to fix it and spent most of the day meditating about it. It is amazing what one can accomplish when you have time and a little incense. I remembered something one of the guys said at agiosat when I ordered a new 12v connector, “You know it needs a good battery right”. Why would he say that, I’m ordering a charger? The batteries are $120.00, and I never take the phone off the boat, I’ll just leave it plugged in all the time. Then it dawned on me. “Surely the good folks at Motorola wouldn’t have designed it to need a battery even though it was plugged in would they”?

Possibly not, I did take 2 lightning strikes in the last year. For some reason the phone needs to be connected to the data port in order to charge, I think it needs it for a ground.

Anyway. To make a long story short, If I keep the phone charging and off, and only turn it on when I need to xmit I might be able to use the trace power left in the battery. I think its working. I thought of rewiring the power from the charger to the battery connectors but the battery only puts out a few Mila-amps, and the charger an ample amount more.

Sorry for the rambling but that was my day yesterday. I really want to keep everyone online during my crossing.

The weather is beautiful and sunny. The Tropical Cyclone to my south is stealing a bit of my wind but I’m still managing 100 miles a day. I’m told it should freshen after Monday.

I’m trying to have a battery delivered to my friend in Tokyo who could bring it later in the month.

Having the phone off all day is strange. I’m used to the company of my instant messages throughout the day. I will turn it on a few times throughout the day to check instant messages and transmit.

Peace from the middle of the Pacific

Sail far, and live slowly.

Alex

What a day!

Lat -9.634167
Lon -116.755833

I had a rough night, not because it was rough, but variable. The sails needed a lot of attention. I believe the Cyclone ahead of me is affecting the weather.

Today however, I live in a miraculous world of blue. The sea is bluer then the sky and the sky is as blue as I’ve ever seen it.

I will have a new look for my new world. I broke out the clippers today to trim up and shaved a stripe down the left side of my head. Now my hair is the same length as my trimmed beard and I love it, it feels really clean and cool.

I’m in the groove of the crossing and feel really good. I was really loosing it under the thumb of the cipro and gloomy skies and seas of the UDC, thank goodness that is behind me.

I really can’t wait to upload pictures from the crossing; this is such a beautiful experience.

Everything gets used harder at sea. I’m worried about my monitor, it’s blinking on and off and I hope it holds. It’s a very small computer monitor, the kind you get for your car; I don’t know where I will find another one. I’m also hoping that this log gets out. My sat phone is on its tippy-toe of its last leg. Ahhhh, the joys of technology!

Cheers everyone.

Alex

Better weather!

Lat -9.2675
Lon -115.284167

Sailing is getting a bit trickier. I have not worried so much about direction and leaned to the south. I am now at the same latitude as Hive Oa and need to keep a sharper eye. The wind is also slowly shifting more to the east and wakening to around 11kts. I spent a good amount of time today trimming sails.

I made a bit of a diesel mess trying to get the contents of my 15 gallon container into the tank. I also took a small mouthful of diesel siphoning it out of the container, YUCK!!! Now I’ll get cancer and die before I reach my destination, or maybe not.  

I really left the UDC behind today, I got some amazing pictures of the large mass of weather I left behind me, very dramatic, cant wait to upload them.

It is quite comfortable on Namaste now. I’ve managed to clean up a bit and if the weather holds I am planning on sleeping outside tonight.

I’m getting excited, I feel that I’m on the final stretch, 1400 miles left of a 4000 mile trip, Wahoooo!

Cheers everyone.

Alex

Super fine!

Lat -9.276389
Lon -114.800833

It all came full circle last night.

The first sunset I’ve seen in a while appeared last night, and what a doozy it was. Namaste and I bathed in its pink light as the sea’s confusion subsided. The 8 foot waves spread apart until the motion was one of a mother rocking a newborn in a crib. The first real clear sky appeared for a few hours and the Southern Cross and full moon lit my evening. The wind continued at 12kts pushing my modest boat along swiftly.

If a spy satellite was taking video of me I would surely be dubbed mad as a hatter. Drinking Guinness, naked as a jay, and singing to the soundtrack of  “O Brother where art thou” was the stage. My smile reached Hiva Oa last night.

Mad or not, it was a beautiful night to be at sea. I thought I would rise to a clear sky but the sea has other plans today. I have 100 percent overcast and 15kts from the SSE. I’d rather have the wind then sun so I’m happy with the situation, can’t have it all right?

I’m going to look through my library for a new victim after breakfast. My plan is to read the day away, perhaps take a nap, or struggle with the weather, who knows?

Cheers everyone.

Peace, love, and commitment.

Alex

1500 miles 2 go

Lat -8.934167
Lon -113.500833

Sorry for the delay in logs I’m having comm. Problems.

I caught 2 dorado yesterday, one was a bull, and the biggest I’ve ever caught. I took 8 fat fillets from him which are now on salt. Good thing too because I don’t have much of an appetite, they will last.

There is more sun today, however last night the wind freshened to 22kts and the swell seems to have changed a bit of direction. The wind weakened over night and is back down to 17. With the new swell direction (more on the stern) I have a large port to starboard roll as I’m making my 5 kts. It makes it quite difficult to do anything with the exception of lay in my bunk with my eyes shut.

I’m not ashamed to admit I’m tired. Not including my 2 days in the Galapagos I’ve been at sea for more then 3 weeks. I am very much looking forward to putting this passage behind me. It has not been the coconut milk run I’ve read about probably because of the La Nina aspect. And according to my weather sources I spent more then a week in a secondary ITCZ (My UDC) which really wore me out. I’m hoping these last few weeks shape up and offer a better ride. I know it is worth it and I’m not complaining I’m just bruised, battered, and burned. Wait till you see the pictures of my hands I took in the UDC, looks like I should be in the hospital. A crew member would make all the difference in the world but I want to do this on my own. My burn did not blister over night it’s just red and soar. I do have a burn kit on board with gauze somewhere but I don’t think I’ll need to try and dig it out. There is a tropical cyclone developing I the Tahiti area, however I’ve been told it is nothing for me to worry about.

My mental goal is the 1000 mile mark. From there I’m hoping to become more excited as the triple digits roll back.

I’m really proud of my buddy Rick (my star pupil) who I met on a charter this past year. He got his boat and is on his way. Check out www.sailblogs.com/member/bccjunessa/ nice boat, you can’t go wrong with a Bristol Channel Cutter.

Seize the day!

Cheers everyone.

Alex

Burn!

Lat -8.3175
Lon -111.105833

Today I woke to another grey day, the good news it’s not the UDC, the ceiling is high and I can still see patches of blue to the south. The wind is blowing 15 – 18 from the SSE.

Last night I wanted to make nice pasta in celebration of escaping the UDC. I had the pasta on the burner boiling away when a large wave sloshed the boiling water down my left leg; thank goodness it missed my mid-section. Man what I would have done for some ice or something cold. I turned the fridge off a week ago with the absence of the sun and solar power. My leg is pretty red and still burns. I’m happy to be off the Cipro.

I’m deep in my Clive Cussler book “Serpent”, it is good entertainment.

I’ve got the line out for the first time in a while and I’m hoping for fresh fish tonight. Maybe I’ll even have a warm beer now that I’m off the antibiotics.

Many people asked f I could feel the effects of the tsunami, the answer is “no”. Tsunamis travel very fast (400kts) and are undetectable in deep water. I did hear on the SSB last night that a late cyclone is developing in the Tahiti area. I hope it doesn’t steal my wind entering the Marquesas.

I have a grey and brown brillow pad growing on my face, it makes me look old. I can’t wait to shave it after some pictures.

I am at mid point from land now; could I possibly be the most secluded man on earth?

Cheers everyone.

Alex

P.S. just caught a nice dorado for dindin.

I’ve made a discovery!

Lat -8.000833
Lon -109.700833

All sailors know of the ITCZ (Inter Tropical Convergence Zone) or simply better known as “The Doldrums”.

I have made a new discovery…, the UDC (The Uber-Death Cloud), or perhaps I’ll call it Viento Pegasoso (The sticky wind (in Spanish)), and no I can’t spell in Spanish, or English for that matter.

The UDC floats around the Pacific eating small boats and driving captains and crews mad! Thank God I survived. It is an anomaly, a vortex in space and time, a black hole, it’s the UDC! STAY AWAY!!!

I’ve never sailed through weather the way I have for the past week my surroundings were so heavy and grey you wouldn’t believe that wind could be associated with such conditions. The ceiling was so low it seemed that Namaste was constantly cutting the belly of the clouds open with her mast, resulting in massive downpour. Wouldn’t wind blow this all away?

I was sailing through the UDC today when I saw something strange, a way out! There was an exit to my dark cave to the south. A doorway about 7 miles wide and 5 miles high. It literally looked like the exit from a cave gleaming blue sky on the other side. “It’s directly into the wind though”! I decided if I burned every drop of diesel I had to get out of this God forsaken place it would be worth it. I kicked the old girl over and went bashing to weather. The opening seemed to be getting smaller. I felt like Indiana Jones rushing to get out of the cave before the rock door slid down trapping me forever.

Four hours later I was laughing in the sunshine, I cut the motor. I turned around, my doorway had closed.

I see cotton ball clouds above and to the south, the west and north looks like uber-crapola.

It appears that the UDC extends to the west in front of me. I’m not big on making southing just to make south. I am on a direct course (slightly south) for Hiva Oa, I want to make good time. I don’t want to add unnecessary miles to my trip.

Anyway, that was my day.

I’m hoping to see a few stars tonight.

Alex

I love the rain!

Lat -7.7675
Lon -109.150833

Nothing like a good nightmare to put things in perspective.

RIPPLE EFFECT, FADE TO DREAM SEQUANCE:

I was wearing my black Armani (Still have it in Maryland) and I was having chocolate martinis with KC and the Sunshine Band at the Olive in Santa Monica.

I ordered some calamari rings “man, I loved you guys, what ever happened to you” I said?

They looked at me in unison and said “bad bloging, time to pay”!

After I finished my swallow of martini I said “what”?

CUT TO:

2 native men were dragging me up a south pacific beach towards a tribe of what looked like cannibals. They threw me in the sand before King Grandakakabigmantitty. Tiki tourches lit the scene and he was wearing a grass skirt and sitting upon a throne of bones. His toothless tribe studying my every move. He was holding a spear, and on the end of the spear was Gilligan’s head which looked at me and said “your in deep doodoo now, don’t ask about the skipper, it was ugly”!

King Grandakakabigmantitty looked at me, laughed, and said “don’t listen to Gilligan he stupid, I like you, you funny, we no eat. Instead I have big surprise”!

I took a deep breath of relief, until I saw what the big surprise was.

His 832 pound daughter appeared from behind his throne.

“This is my best daughter, princess gonnawannalayya, you marry, first dominatrix in all Polynesia, we make big progress, yes?”

I closed my eyes as tight as I could and found myself waking up screaming “there is no place like home, there’s no place like home”!

I ran outside to the grey rainy night and was happy to be home.

I know what has been getting me down and it isn’t the rain, it’s the cipro. Many people have sent me Instant messages warning me about the dangerous side effects of cipro, thank God today is my last day on it.

It is still quite grey but no rain yet this morning. For a few minutes there was a patch of blue sky above Namaste. It was only big enough to get a bucket through, but it was nice to see.

Sorry for the downer log yesterday.

1778 miles to go.

Alex

bonkers

Lat -7.4675
Lon -107.9675

Water dripped into my nav-monitor, it is shorting out. I use this computer for communications and navigation. I hope I can continue to get blogs out.

In a worse case scenario I can try to get everything loaded on my laptop and blog and navigate from it.

Damn the rain, I need the sun!

Everything is so friggn wet and moldy smelling. Where is the “coconut milk run”?

The rain is getting to my mood. I’m having problems passing the time. I don’t want to read, I’m just waiting for the rain to stop. I don’t even feel like eating. I haven’t tried to fish in 4 days.

Sorry my spirits are not up, but they are not.

I’ve got the motor running and I’m charging the batteries. I need to run the motor for a few hours every day when the solar panels are not producing.

Sorry for the downer log.

Cheers.

Alex

I made it to Hiva Oh!

Lat -7.3675
Lon -107.3175

April fools!

Rain rain go away come back some other day!

Last night about 03:00 I woke to a strange sound. I could not tell what it was as it woke me up.

A few minutes later I heard it again. A double key click from the VHF.

I jumped up and scanned the black and rainy night looking for a light, nothing.

I fired up the radar, the screen splotchy with squalls “I’ll never find a boat in this mess” I thought.

I grabbed the mic “Hello is anyone out there”?

A few minutes later “Mushi Mushi”. I replied with a crude hello and good morning in Japanese.

“2 fishie boat” he replied.

I came back with “sailing boat”, “aahhhhh schaling boat, harrow”, “Konetchiwa”!

That was the end of the conversation. I didn’t get much sleep after that, I checked the horizon every 15 minutes but never caught a glimpse of my new friends.

The seas have smoothed and the wind is down to 12kts, however the rain continues.

Perhaps I will see the sun today?

I guess I’m not alone out here after all.

Pease, Love, and “2 fishy boats”

Alex

A snarly day!

Lat -6.932222
Lon -105.94

I’ve been inside all day with the companion way closed. I can’t read and have just been thinking about my thoughts again.

I haven’t seen the sun for 3 days. The grey of the sea & sky engulf my world, it’s all I know these days. I am alone on a small boat in the middle of the greatest ocean in the world, why?

A friend sent me an instant message. “You didn’t think the price of admission was free did you”?

Those words rolled through my mind for a while.

I got out of bed, slid back the hatch, and let the rain sting my face. The waves snarled and hissed, the wind howled through the rig, and a smile touched my lips as I realized something.

“Fear guards the gates of freedom”!

We are all so afraid these days. Big seas, terrorists, poverty, whatever. No…, the price of admission is not free, we must sacrifice, WE MUST SACRIFICE! Without sour there is no sweet.

Make it happen!

Peace, Love, Sacrifice and Freedom!

Alex

Sleep & coffee

Lat -6.634167
Lon -105.581389

I need to make small goals to keep sane. For the past 5 days I have been looking at my distance to go and wishing it were under 2000 miles, I’m at 2008 miles now and will break the 2000 mile barrier in about 80 minutes.

I managed to get a decent nights sleep. I had the best dream; I played with my old dog Ranger all night, that’s it, just played with my dog. When I got up Namaste was screaming along at 7.2 knots however the seas have calmed a bit which is nice. It seems that I get a better motion to the boat if I’m a tad over powered.

Anyway, it’s hart to write. I got the advice from a professional weather router yesterday, his text will follow.

Cheers everyone.

It appears he is in an area of high pressure gradient squeeze between a high to the south and low pressure near the equator.

High pressure centered near 40S 090W is about 1030mb. Ridging from this high extends over his track from vessel’s current position near 06S 103W to Marquesas. Measured winds over his track as of 1400Z today were SE near 25-30kts seas . High weakens next 24hrs to 1024mb. This tends to abate wind/sea conditions over his track but gradient remains healthy at 22-27kts, seas 8-10ft. Moving west, expect wind direction to tend to back to easterly. On Sunday, expect high to continue to weaken to 1020mb. Winds abate to 10-20kts. On Monday, winds will have a continued tendency to back to easterly as you get more towards the west of high center still near 40S 090W.

Suggested Route: Maintain current course and speed for best and safe ride. Winds from high center are too widespread to go looking for lesser conditions.

Taking on water!

Lat -6.398056
Lon -104.013889

I really was beside myself this morning all I could do was lay in bed and watch my things bounce off the wall.

“Why is my floor wet” I thought? I put my fingers in it and tasted it, salt water! How could I be taking on water? All my threw-hulls are perfect, everything is double clamped and I just went through and replaced all the hose a few months ago, this cant be!

I checked the t-hulls under the sink, and the ones in the head, no water. That only leaves the one for the motor intake, and the 2 scuppers. I opened the engine room door and found a river of sea water hammering into the bilge. I could see the threw-hull for the motor and it looked fine.

I jumped into the cockpit and started pulling everything out of the lazerette, Bingo! You know the $5.00 a foot hose with the wire in it that shouldn’t break, well it breaks! I just installed this a few months ago. Something (I think my dive bag) was bouncing on it and it broke. I turned off the valve and stopped the water. I don’t know that I can fix it. I do have another scupper which isn’t a problem. The only problem is I have an anti-siphon valve in it from the cooling water and a small amount of cooling water is pumped into the boat when I run the engine now.

I spent the next two hours inflating my dinghy and lashing it to the foredeck for a piece of mind.

I spent a small fortune today calling friends and trying to get weather info. Everyone who looked at charts told me the same thing “It’s going to get worse before it gets better”! Some told me to go south but I’m not going to beat into this sea. I am going a little more west and taking the waves more from the stern which seems to help a bit. My friend on the SSB told me to prepare for 4 more days of this.

I’m sure I’ll be fine as long as I can keep the sea out of the boat.

I need a vacation!

Cheers.

Alex

What time is it?

Lat -6.225
Lon -103.303889

The sky lightened around 7;00 (Panama time) only to reveal more darkness.

At 10:00 last night I woke from a nightmare, I was on a sinking ship and someone was trying to kill me. When my eyes opened and I realized it was a dream my fear did not subside. Namaste was barely in control doing more then 7 knots, it was blowing a gale and I was being tossed around like a rag doll.

I got outside and doused the jib and she calmed a bit however the rolling motion increased. I’ve been up ever since. Its blowing 25-30, and I hope you can appreciate how difficult writing this log is; I’m surprised I can pull it off.

The sea is turning into a La Nina state rapidly. The sea is getting colder and the trades strengthening, timing is everything I guess.

I must say I’m not happy. Quint (my autopilot) is working triple time, I hope he holds.

Tomorrow I will reach my half way point from Panama, I have just over 2000 miles left to go, and I’ve only had one good trade wind day.

I hope this ends up being worth it. I am cold, tired, and feel like a whole new kind of shit today.

Peace, Love, and ???

Alex

2 dorado day!

Lat -6.149167
Lon -102.0175

Another 135 miles in the log book today.

I hear the pictures are up in the gallery now, check’m out!

I feel a hell of a lot better. I still get winded quickly but I feel human again. I took a good bath in the seawater and even rinsed with fresh.

I caught 2 dorados today. I had one fresh filet for breakfast and dried the other 3.

I also caught a dolphin. I’ve never had one hit a lure, I thought they were too smart. After I tightened the drag the hook broke off. It will rust out of his mouth quickly. He turned around and came by the boat and gave me a “that was stupid of me” look. The huge pod of dolphin played about Namaste for an hour or so then took off like a flash.

I’m really happy and grateful to be out here.

A few have asked if I have seen any commercial traffic, the answer is no. Not on the radar or visually. I doubt there is another human for 700 miles around me.

I can see a squall coming and I’m probably going to take another shower, the fresh water really feels good.

What a life eah?

Peace, Love, and sailing the South Pacific!

Alex

Sailing the South Pacific!

Lat -5.976667
Lon -101.306389

All is well.

I put the table down in the salon and sleeping inside. Actually I’m spending a lot of time inside avoiding the sun because of the antibiotics.

My poor Namaste needs such a cleaning. Coffee and food are ground into my upholstery. The v-birth is full of everything that finds its way to the floor and I need to wipe everything down with bleach or vinegar. She is a tough cookie though and doesn’t seem to mind getting dirty, my kind of girl!

I started a new book so I’m sure my day will be occupied.

I’m checking in with my friend Chris on “Contigo” every night on 81430 @ 00:00 zulu. I know a number of you said you would try to hear me on the 4 meg freq I gave a few days ago, however 4meg is only good for 800 miles at best, and I don’t think I’m within 800 miles of anyone. As I get farther from Contigo we will probably switch to 12 Alpha, or Bravo.

I caught a Dorado last night after I had dinner. He was only a foot long and I was surprised he hit my lure. I threw the little guy back to the sea, I’m sure he was pleased.

Most of my fresh fruits are history with the exception of a pineapple which I’ll eat today and a bag of limes that Maggie gave me before I left the Galapagos. It will be time to hit the tins shortly.

I’m really out in the middle of the sea.

Cheers and have a great day.

Alex

record breaking

Lat -5.874167
Lon -99.705278

I’ve made 135 miles in the last 24hrs!

I was lying in bed after I sent in my log this morning and went back to my solar cabin. After a few minutes it seemed like a weird Laura ingles Wilder/Little house on the prairie nightmare. I crashed my F150 into the front doors of my solar cabin, let my dogs free, and torched the place. As I watched the place burn I clicked my heels, home again!

I’m back! I need to get my ship together!

I got up, tweaked my sails, and have been making 6 – 6.5 kts all day.

I’ll build the cabin later and die in it, but for now I’m sailing across the Pacific.

If I do too much I get exhausted quickly. It was really stupid of me to go out and drink and smoke a pack of cigarettes the way I did, I made my bed, and I’m laying in it. It’s not the first time I did something stupid.

If I keep up this pace I could make Hiva Oa in 20 days or so.

I’m still on the cipro even though I got a slew of Instant messages warning me about it. My body seems to be adjusting to it and I’m not wiggn’ so badly.

Today was a perfect sailing day. 13-15, and blue sky.

Cheers.

Alex

Big seas!

Lat -5.671111
Lon 98.886111

Yesterday was the pits.

As soon as I sent out my log the squalls came. They looked like angry fists in the sky approaching from the stern. They would shout at Namaste “What are you doing here”, “Get out of my way little boat”, “you have no right to be here”! Namaste would reply by saying “I’m sorry, I don’t speak SQUAL!, lets go sailing, lets go sailing…,” and she just kept on trucking through the 24-32 knot wind all day.

I was too exhausted to keep up the sail changes and decided to keep the main reefed to number three and control the power with the jib, this system has been working well and I’ve been screaming down wind between 5.5 to almost 7 knots.

The sea has built to a confused 10 + feet which is mostly coming from the port stern quarter. It is quite uncomfortable but I want to hold my course.

I started the cipro yesterday and I had a really bad reaction to it. I knew it would make me jittery as it has in the past but it seemed worse this time. I was having problems focusing and having a hard time holding it together. I swore I wouldn’t take any more but in the middle of the night my cough came back badly and I took another 500mg’s.

The deck is littered with flying fish. The sun is finally out, and I’m hoping the seas lay down a bit today. The wind has subsided to a pleasant and steady q13kts, and I’m making a respectable 5.3.

During the night I added a second floor to my solar cabin along with two German Shepards and an old beat up Ford 150 pick up. I spent a lot of time there last night, it’s starting to feel like my second home.

Sleep!

Lat -5.296389
Lon -96.874167

I was going to start 500mg of cipro twice a day starting this morning but I think I’ll push it off another 12hrs. I’m feeling a bit better and got a solid 7-8 hours of sleep last night. I’m hacking up nasty stuff and this leads be to believe I’m at the tail-end of whatever I picked up in the Galapagos. I’m trying to drink as much water as I can, take vitamins, and I’m going through my citrus fruit.

I haven’t used the motor for the past 30 hours, finally some steady wind! I haven’t needed to attend to the sails much which has been nice considering I’ve had no energy.

When I was in Colombia a few years ago I got deathly ill. At the time I didn’t speak Spanish well and I thought I had a case of Dengi fever, I could not communicate with the doctors well. Last year my friend said to rule out dengi because I had no rash, “you probably had malaria” she informed me! When I was admitted to the hospital I had a 105 fever and it was climbing, I was delirious and could not move about by myself. Yesterday I was worried that the malaria was coming back. If that was the case I don’t know that I’d make it through this crossing. My friend Roger (the one whose book we sell on the site) has reoccurring malaria, “It’s no joke Alex, seriously”!

Anyway, I’m feeling better today and I’m not as worried.

It is nice to be sailing along towards French Polynesia.

I’m going to take another easy day reading and sleeping if I can.

Cheers.

Alex

2600 miles!

Lat -4.983611
Lon -95.793611

When I started from Panama I had 4000 miles on the table and I just broke 2600, yeehaaa!

The weather was up till around 13:00 then let down to next to nothing. I had to break out the drifter again. I sailed under the drifter for a few hours and the wind picked up to 8-10 and I took it down.

I’m currently on a heading of 251m making around 4kts.

I’m still not feeling great. If this continues I’ll break Into some antibiotics tomorrow. I think I have a slight fever as well.

I’m going to try an d sleep while it is calm. The horizon ahead of me is black.

Cheers, and good night.

Alex