Peter and Kathy were fantastic guests to have for a week. We had very strange weather the first few days resulting in rain and 47 knots of wind. The local weather men are still scratching their heads. Peter and Kathy were happy to have the weather as they are considering buying a boat in the near future and feel they got a better idea of what the cruising life is like. 
I must say it was a bit strange how well the four of us got along. it’s uncanny how Peter and I have the same views on politics, religion, health, and the world around us. We had a lot of laughs. Carla and Kathy got along famously as well. They were a real pleasure to have aboard Splendid for a week and I believe we made some long-term friends.
Carla has about 4 days of work (sewing), then we have another guest coming on the 28th for a week. After that it’s our plan to sail back to Linton so I can finally finish the water-maker (I only need 2 small $5 parts) and work on Splendid’s new refrigeration system. I’m also going to focus some energy on “The Minimalist 
Sailor” (book & film) and replace Splendid’s steering cable.
If anyone has been dreaming to visit us in the San Blas islands speak now or forever hold your tongue. I’m thinking we may transit the Canal for the Pacific in the next 6 months. I promised to take Carla to Costa Rica for surfing and it’s starting to feel like time to move on.
Although Kuna Yala (San Blas) is the most magical and beautiful place I’ve ever been or dreamed of, my heart is breaking watching the western world pollute these simple, innocent, and kind people. Traditional, hand-made clothing is being replaced by cheap Chinese, sweat-shop synthetic materials. Sails are being 
replaced by outboard engines, and the Kuna will sell us fresh fish & lobster so they can afford to buy spam, sugar, and processed foods to be more like us. The first thing the children ask for now is “caremelo” (candy), and their teeth rot quickly. When we were in the Chichime anchorage last week I noticed that my outboard engine had been tampered with. After closer inspection I noticed that someone had replaced one of my new spark plugs with an old rusty one, I’m thankful the engine wasn’t taken. Needless to say the incident made me angry, but after a little time I saw it for what it was. Poor people needing a spark plug. The Kuna were never poor before technology and western influence. They were (and most still are) a 
proud indigenous culture. It’s just too much for me to witness sometimes as I know what will happen to the last strong-hold of true peace and freedom. This is a direct result of western man paving a road through the jungle in order to exploit the Kuna people and their natural resources. It’s still in an infantile stage but I know nothing good will come of it. This has been the sad story of western influence and indigenous cultures (American Indians) for a long time and maybe finally winning the war and dousing real freedom and peace for good is a good thing, out of sight out of mind right?
When we go through the Canal I’ll be looking for a few people to come and help. I’ll need four line handlers (Carla is one), and to hire a canal pilot for the 
crossing. Transiting the canal is an ordeal but a once in a lifetime (twice in my case) experience. I’ll be looking for 3 people and probably charge $500-$700 for the week per person. I can hire local guys for $40 a day but it’s just not as much fun and I know a few of you guys have voiced an interest in the past. We will transit the canal and probably spend a few days in the Rio Chagras river which is a really nice jungle experience and only 20 or so miles from the canal. If you’re interested let me know and I’ll start making a list.
I took this photo of a Kuna dug-out canoe sailing and have been trying to figure out why the image makes me sad. I’ve come to the conclusion it’s because it’s black & white, and they are sailing away. The significance being that they are in the past sailing into an unforeseen future, and one of prominent western influence.
Even though I’ll be leaving Kuna Yala my heart will always live here with these people. I don’t suspect I’ll ever find a place that feels more like home and even writing these words brings a tear to my eyes.
Splendid is my home and the world my backyard. I had the same sad feeling last time (2006) leaving Kuna Yala however this time I 
leave with a partner which fills my heart with excitement.
Getting Splendid to a place I feel comfortable to do extended voyaging is becoming a reality. I still have a few hurdles like a major haul out, canal transit, and a light-air sail plan to afford but we are making headway quickly and the idea of extended voyaging keeps me up at night with a smile on my face.
Peace, Love, and the Kuna people
– alex
This is my first comment, but I have been reading since I was a line handler for you the first time going through the canal. I can highly recommend it to anyone that wants to do it, I still talk about it and it was amazing experience. Since then I bought a boat and I am sailing in western Caribbean, thanks to you. Hopefully we will run into each other, but I’m at least a year or two behind you.
Matt,
Cool you got a boat after that :) you are in some of Namaste’s canal transit photos.
Cheers and don’t be so shy to keep in touch.
Peace
I’m cooking an octopus for the first time, yummy :)
Alex,
How is life? Glad to see that you still very positive and inspiring.
I was wondering if you had any ideas on raster nav charts I could download for free? I have gone thru NOAA’s files for free US costal charts and I would like to expand for Panama, Belize, and alot of South American costal charts. When you type “free” anything into a search bar you get clobbered with all kinds of spamish crud. Just thought I would ask, thanks
Isaac
Alex & Carla:
Nice post. Sounds like the heart strings are being pulled. You know you could stay and help in the obvious transition… But maybe it’s better to collect a lot of B roll and say your goodbyes. Decisions are tuff like this and the only way is to make it and make it right.
On the other side, sounds like you and Carla are enjoying life and sharing it with some great folks. Good for you. You do make a difference in a lot of peoples lives.
Glad to see the water maker project is coming to a head. I’m in the middle of chasing old hoses and replacing ’em as well as just ordered 5 new port lights to stop some drips. Man these Endeavors have a bunch of ’em. 21 in all with 4 hatches. Great for ventilation, but a lot of places for water to sneak in.
In any case, continue the project of life and I’ll stay in touch. I’ll catch you on Skype sometime.
Capt. Paul
s/v Panacea
Isaac,
Open CPN is a free and Fantastic program and will work with many chart formats. I use it every day. I have world charts for it and have been colecting them for many years. If you find a cruiser around ask if you can get a copy of his charts and use with open CPN. I don’t know if you will find free charts outside the USA, but if they are availae I’m sure you will find a link on the open CPN website.
Capt Paul
It’s an adventure putting an old boat together eah? I hope your getting some charters in your area. If you guys want a great sailing expierance check out The Florida Gulf Coast Charters link on the left side of the screen.
Man, how did I go so long in my life without loving and mastering the consumption of octopus. I’ve never had it fresh before and I must say it is absolutely lovely!!!!! I must learn how to hunt them.
Cheers
Its really SAD that western people thing there are right,and have the right to tell others that they are wrong.
And to think you snobbed one off in your movie while provisioning! Octopus is real yummy if you prep it right after catching it. This entails biting it between the eyes, ripping out the innards and ink (ew) and then whack and scrub the heck out of it on a smooth rock by the sea. Then hang it up to dry in the sun. Then BBQ or boil…. or sushi. Unfortunately they shrink alot so don’t bother with the small ones (let them grow). To hunt… they usually hide in little caves but open shells and little fish swimming around give them away. They are great animals and extremely smart and beautiful, so I haven’t the heart to kill them any longer. But I will piss them off with my snorkel! Great fun! Found one in the cavity of my delta anchor last summer. Named him Bob and had a blast with him. Naturally he split the next day. In some parts of the world they are poisonous so do some research.
Ahhhh, now I’m drooling
Peter d
Tresea, it just the way it is :)
Peter they are really, REALLY, smart. My Italian friend said that he watched his buddy put a shrimp in a canning jar infront of an octopus. When he placed the jar infront of the octopus it proceeded to twist the jar open and eat the shrimp.
I feel a little guilty eating them but they are just so damn good. I prefer it to lobster and the locals only charge $2 each and they are big enough for two people.
I just Wiggeled Splendid into a really tight (surrounded by sandbars) anchorage. I just posted a spot so if you go to the current position page an look at a satellite photo you’ll see what I mean.
;)
Hi Alex and Carla,
Great post! I wondered why I hadn’t seen one in a few days and now see that you had guests. My first scuba dive in Puerta Vallarta was only me and the instructer. He carried a what looked like a coat hanger bent like a hook on the end. We hunted around the reefs and all of a sudden he stuck the stiff wire in the corral. All of a sudden blue ink appeared followed by an octopus. He grabbed it with his hand and handed me a net. I was a little freaked out being my first dive and never handling an octopus. He held the octopus down to his arm which it wrapped itself around and then took it off. He handed the net bag to me again and we caught 5 that day. I’m sure it was how he fed his family. As an outdoorsman, it was quite amazing and relatively easy. Find it, hook it and put it in a mesh bag.
While it may be sad to see an indigenous people start to change, I think that their inner explorer is probably as strong as ours. How amazing everything introduced to them must seem. I have seen this many times in the military in jungles (central america, including panama). One mother begged me to take her daughters who were young teenagers at the time. A person whom they had only met that day. I was a medic and the closest person to a doctor they had ever and would ever meet. I’ll never forget an older man who I took care of who would have died from a simple machete cut had we not flown to that island. The very first time and every time after they meet a person, who sails the world, on a big yacht to them, I can only imagine the wonderment and dreams and indigenous person might have. The only way to keep them as they were would have been to keep them totally isolated from everything. Including you. Here in America I see a trend to to get off the grid as you say and live more free getting back to nature and I love it. I can also see wanting an outboard as a Kuna. Hopefully they will be able to remain autonomous and as a small culture learn their imported mistakes. It sounds as if they are a proud people and a smart culture. I am torn. Deep inside, through my travels, I understand that they are on a slow transition and with that comes some really bad stuff but I also have seen what almost complete isolation can bring to a culture and it has some really bad consequences. I like to think and hope that their curriossity and exploration would not come at too high a price for their culture. I hope their elders lead them well and that noone takes advanatge of their paradise. I remember kids begging me for candy all too often but I can also remember the 30 year olds with not a tooth in thier head who had never been introduced to candy. I guess I’m just looking at it through some of the indigenous people’s I’ve met that dream of having just the small things that we take for granted such as clean water and a mild education of what really makes up this world. I would, like you, wish they would choose to remain just as they are. All of your posts for the past couple of years makes this one of the top places I want to visit and yet there lies just one of the many things that is surely to bring about the change we would rather not see.
Peace Always
I really like Jeff’s thoughts on the Kuna. I too sometimes think about how our own perceptions may paint their isolated way of life in rose colored glasses. Where we see dignity and harmony with nature, do they see a monotonous and limited existence? Where we see the corruptive influence of Western society, do they see vitality and opportunity infusing their lives?
I think when some of us go to see them, we feel like a portal has been opened to a time we personally would have loved to live. Away from the trappings of modern life that we’re fleeing, imbued with the essence of freedom. But much like how most of us take refrigerators and Play Stations for granted, they may view their gifts similarly.
Ultimately I don’t really have any answers as to what is right or wrong for the Kuna. I do think though that the right to self determination is ultimately what freedom is all about. It’s how Alex gets to do his thing after all :)
For free open source navigation software and raster charts check out “Sea Clear II”.
Keith
Moodshadow
C-26 Mk-II
Dana Point, CA
Didn’t western civilization build the Panama Canal?
Now that the Native Americans are making money from gambling you see a backlash towards preserving there culture. Nothing wrong with the money as it provides health care and education for there kids but it doesn’t feed the spirit does it. When gas goes to 10 bucks a gallon I don’t think the Kuna’s will want there outboards do you? Oil will make paupers of us all soon enough.
Now that the Native Americans are making money from gambling you see a backlash towards preserving there culture. Nothing wrong with the money as it provides health care and education for there kids but it doesn’t feed the spirit does it. When gas goes to 10 bucks a gallon I don’t think the Kuna’s will want there outboards do you? Oil will make paupers of us all soon enough.