Port Antonio, Jamaica

Hot Lazy day, no wind or sleep. There is still a lot of traffic (Tankers & freighters) entering the Windward Passage from points South. My radar’s perimeter alarm seems to go off every time I try and shut my eyes. This would be so much easier with one crew member for helm-shifts.

My spirit sank pretty low today for some reason, possibly “Non culture-shock” mixed with fatigue and deliria. I’ve really have been missing my family & friends, sharing a bottle of wine and good conversation. I have to be honest; I started thinking of abandoning the trip and setting sail for the eastern seaboard. For some reason, in these calm waters, I became fearful today, and quite lonely.

Early in the day I decided to alter course and head for Port Royal (Kingston, Jamaica). If I motor I can make it in 2 days. There I could fuel, properly provision, and make some phone calls. Should I go home, or should I continue and cross the Caribbean Sea in hurricane season?

Late in the day, off of the Haitian coast, I came across a catamaran making way for the Windward Passage (Between Cuba & Haiti). He hailed me, and had many questions about navigating the passage, through the Bahamas, and on to Fort Lauderdale. He asked me my destination and I replied “Port Royal”. He asked if I had ever cruised Jamaica before. After I told him I hadn’t, he let me know Kingston was not the place for me. He had just spent 4 years working in Jamaica, and told me to alter course for Port Antonio, “trust me, take my advice” he said. Being a child of the United States and the film industry, I have become firm in my belief in trusting no one. Why should I take the advice of a strange voice on the radio in the middle of the ocean? My cruising book says that Jamaica is not a popular cruising destination because of the number of violent crimes, muggings and drug traffic. It suggests that Kingston would be the easiest place to clear in, Port Antonio the least. I took his advice though, altered course, and I will make Port Antonio by midnight.

My hands are shaking from lack of sleep I suppose. I’ve managed maybe 4 hours in the last 5 days. For some reason I just cant sleep. I try…, but every time I dose off I feel the need to glance at the radar and chart plotter just one more time, after that, I’m awake again. When I do manage to fall asleep, it’s only to a 20 minute timer, or I’m awakened by one of the various alarms on the boat.

Tonight…, after midnight…, I know I will sleep.

Christopher Columbus arrived in Jamaica in 1494. The name Jamaica comes from the Arawak word “xaymaka” meaning land of wood and water.

At about 19:00, I caught my first sight of Jamaica. I jumped up and screamed “LAND HO!!!!!!”, I started dancing around the boat singing various Bob Marley lyrics. Adrenaline filled my veins…, the sun set, and a full moon rose. I could smell Jamaica from 8 miles off-shore. The wind was fragrant with the smell of rain, trees, and rich soil.

This is why I’m doing this! The cost of loneliness and delirium are well worth it I thought. I felt like an explorer, entering a strange harbor under a full moon. Port Antonio is surrounded by mountains. The wind died completely, and I could perfectly see the full moon reflecting in the still water as I quietly explored the harbor. Jamaica is thick, lush, fragrant, and humid. This is my first tropical destination. I was not tired. My chest was filled with the excitement of youth, and a raging smile dawned my face

I came across sailboats on mooring balls. A local motored by in a skiff and said “No anchor Mon, mooring only five dollars”, a father and his boy got in their dingy, and helped me retrieve the mooring, we spoke for a while, and they invited me for drinks the following day.

I lay in my bed so excited I can’t sleep. The hatch over my head was fully open when it started to rain. The fresh water felt good and I left it open.

Last night…, I fell asleep with Jamaican rain falling on my smile…., oh what a life!