I’m really having to force myself to write today, I’m in 100% decompression mode.
How is it I have been so close (40 miles) to my own private paradise for so long, and I’m only arriving just now? I find myself asking this question many times throughout the day as I gaze at the surf and pristine white sand islands.
The weeks before departing to the San Blas were a push for sure. It seemed everything I touched needed to be fixed, tuned, tweaked, rigged, or patched.
The day we left the Linton anchorage was a bit stressful. We planned on leaving in the morning after we finished filling the water tanks. Splendid took an enormous amount of water never finding her fill. Why is the bilge pump going off? I asked myself as I was putting in another 5 gallon jug of water in her tank.
I took everything out of the lazerette only to find that I had drilled 6 holes in the top of the port water tank and it was leaking everywhere. I had just pulled out the little Kubota engine, GOD I hate that thing, only to realize that when I mounted it I did so atop the fiberglass water tank, ARRRGGGGG! The top of the tank and floor of the lazerette are seamless. Within 20 minutes I had ground around the 6 holes and patched them with 3 layers of fiberglass. After stowing everything back in the lazerette it was finally time to go a few hours later with the itch of fiberglass dust on my skin.
I started the engine, walked to the bow, removed the snubber, and placed the anchor chain in the gypsy. At last I thought as the smile shined from my lips, Carla smirking at my side.
I stepped on the windlass button and silence, no joy! I wanted to cry in the 90 degree heat of the day. Instead I grabbed my tools and fixed the windlass (corrosion on the ground connection). An hour later the anchor was up and we made the big 4 mile trip to Isla Grande.
Even though our journey only took us a few miles away our hearts were elated and the smell of travel was in the air. This was a big day for the two of us. For me, I was finally setting sail again after an extended refit, and Carla was setting sail for the first time.
After dinner we turned in at about 8pm knowing we were getting up at 4:30.
I couldn’t sleep well as every system on the boat was taking my sleep and occupying my thoughts.
I had many problems with my fuel system the last time I was out. For one I had bad fuel in the tanks (from Colombia), secondly I found a hair-line crack in the top of my racor filter, and lastly I had some kinks in my fuel lines. I had fixed everything and replaced all my fuel lines, but would my motor let me down the next day? I knew we didn’t have much wind and the following day would be a 8-10 hour motorboat ride.
Carla and I were up before the sun making breakfast, stowing, and raising the main. When the light first warmed the sky I heaved anchor and set out for our trip to the Chichime anchorage in Western Kuna Yala (San Blas).
The day was good and Carla was really enjoying the trip. I accidentally caught a shark (2-3’) which got away with one of my good lures, argggg.
We had a few knots of breeze behind us and we were doing about 4.5 knots under power and pulling the dinghy.
I was really excited near the end of our trip when we only had 15 miles to go. I could see Chichime in the distance along with some dark clouds.
Well, during these last 15 miles of our trip we had 20+ knot head winds, 6’ seas, and a strong opposing current. Splendid got knocked back to making a knot, maybe two. I was running my good old Perkins a bit hard, and under a heavy load. It seemed to me on my trip down from the states that it liked to conk-out at exactly the worst moment. Mostly due to the hairline crack in the racor filter which bled air into the system.
I know you might think I’m mad but I communicate with my boats. In the back of my head I could hear Splendid saying “ Don’t stress it, I just want to prove to you that all your work on me paid off, run the engine hard, I wont let you down, you’ll see”
I was thinking I should cut the engine and put to sea on a long tack to fight the headwind and current. This would put me in Chichime long after the sun had set on a moonless night. Two boats have been lost entering Chichime at night in the last year. There is only one small entrance between the reef but I know it well, I also have an accurate track on my GPS so I felt confident I wouldn’t have any issues.
But if I really push the engine hard into the sea for 3-4 hours, and it does well, I’ll regain my confidence in the motor. I really want renewed confidence in my motor and I should listen to the little voice inside my head so I throttled up. The spray came over the bow and we were making a solid 2.5 – 3.0 knots with 12 miles to go.
Well Splendid was right and I once again have confidence in my motor. We pulled into Chichime with an hour of sun left in the sky.
Carla was a bit disappointed with Chichime. She thought it was beautiful but crowded, and it was. The backpacker boats like to congregate there and the vibe is a bit off. The following morning we took off for the Eastern Lemons (Island group), which were only a few miles away. What a peaceful place I found to drop the hook. There was another boat anchored about a half-mile away and another 10 or so over a mile away. The water was turquoise blue, calm, and we were protected from the sea by a barrier reef. The sound of silence and crashing waves dominated our days.
I wasn’t so wild about the seabed as the sand was tainted with seagrass. We had a large squall roll through one night and I was awake for about an hour watching the GPS but the anchor held well.
How is it I have been so close (40 miles) to my own private paradise for so long, and I’m only arriving just now? I ask myself this question once again.
I don’t really know the answer and all I tell myself is it was meant to be. Splendid is a very different boat from the one I bought and I must say I’m pleased with my work. My shoulders are shot and I often need to take a handful of Tylenol to start the day, but it was all worth it. Not to mention I found Carla on the way back from the big smoke (city).
I’m such a different man than the last time I was here on Namaste, and I have such a different boat. I’m not single-handing, and my head is in a very different place. I’m also older and a more knowledgeable, and capable, sailor.
I write to you today from exactly where I want to be in the world. And I’m not talking about a coordinate, destination, anchorage, island, or country. I’m where I need to be in my head.
I fought & worked so hard to have a little ship I could call home, a place where I could stand up in the galley, sprawl in my bed, and be dry in the cockpit. I could never have afforded such a boat without so many years of dragging my ass over the coals, and I’m so happy I did. Had I known the amount of work Splendid would demand I never would have bought her. I would have stayed in my little Namaste and traveled the world in my tiny, match-box home. I would have been happy but on a very different path. I must say all my work has been worth it. I still have a lot to do, but having my blood, sweat, and tears embedded in the decks beneath my feet feel good.
We will be exploring this magnificent place for a while. I have no idea for how long or which way the wind will blow. But I know it will blow in the right direction.
How is it I have been so close (40 miles) to my own private paradise for so long, and I’m only arriving just now?
All I can say is I finally feel I’m arriving home. Kuna Yala is the most magnificent place I’ve seen. It’s not for everyone. Many people prefer Bocas Del Torro, the BVI’s, Bahamas or other destinations that offer restaurants, hotels, and jet skis. For me the peace of living amongst indigenous people with nothing ashore but a straw hut, coconuts, and sand suits me just fine. Carla seems to feel the same.
We tried moving to the Western Lemon anchorage yesterday but it was overcrowded with boats anchored on top of each other. I will never understand why so many sailors feel the need to be so “connected” with each other. Carla and I motored around the anchorage for twenty minutes and decided to move on. There is a bar with satellite internet and TV ashore, as well as many moorings in the anchorage. I suppose this is what attracts so many boaters. I saw the boat that slammed into Splendid (dragging) last year tied up to a mooring.
We found a nice place to anchor in a different part of the Eastern Lemons, and that is where we sit now.
Carla’s brother and wife arrive on the 7th and we will have guests for 10 days. It will be nice to meet some of Carla’s family.
How is it I have been so close (40 miles) to my own private paradise for so long, and I’m only arriving just now?
I found the answer, why ask why?
Where will we end up tomorrow?
Peace, Love, and Kuna Yala!!!
-alex
You can see our journey on my Spot Page:
fms.ws/816Eq/9.57209N/78.85156W
Use this link, as my SPOT page is broken.
SUPPER COOL! Im happy 4 u 2.
Reading your words after returning from the holiday weekend and sailing in the Sea Of Oolagah, I have to say after reading yur post, I AM SO JEALOUS! I could picture in my mind every move, problem and anchorage you wrote of and it simply made me smile. I found your website immediately after your first Lats and Atts column. I immedately ordered your CD’s. I am winding down a business and am currently taking care of a couple of children I adopted, paying it forward for someone who took me in when I was young. You have kept my dream alive along with fostering a sooner to be cruise for myself and my lady than I would have ever accomplished without seeing you out there. I’m happy for you both and I have missed the cruising posts with your refit. As I wind things down here I will look forward to reading the posts of your adventure in paradise. Your Friend.
congrats, Im currently retrofitting my little ship SJ24 for my solo up the inside passage, I check on your progress all the time, Alex you are an inspiration….
Arch
S/V Sirocco
I’m very happy for you man. You deserve a break and it looks like you’re getting it right now. Enjoy the times and make it last because from where I’m sitting, everything you’ve done since you’ve left L.A. has been leading up to the journey you’ve just begun.
Keep up the updates! How’s the film coming along?
Alex, lay off the “handful of tylenol”. The max dose is 4,000mg in a 24hr period, and certainly not all at once. Tylenol is moving to reduce that to 3,000mg in 24 hrs. While a great med, it causes liver damage in high doses, so be aware. A better over-the-counter solution would to be a combination of aspirin and tylenol. This takes advantage of a phenomenon called potentiation. Excedrin, BC and Goodys powders are 3 examples of potentiation meds. Lower doses of more than one drug. Each helps boost the effect of the other, while reducing overall exposure to any one drug. So, instead of, say, four Tylenol, take two Tylenol and two aspirin, or something like 3 Excedrin every 8 hours, or only the once in the AM if that’s all you need. It also has caffeine, which has it’s own analgesic properties. You don’t want to go all in with just aspirin or other NSAID as excessive use of them is hard on the kidneys. The NSAID will help ease the inflammation. So, you see, potentiation is your best bet. Just read the ingredients. I once had a patient that came in with liver failure. She said her “stomach doctor” told her no aspirin due to her ulcers. She needed pain meds, but due to her already weak liver, she was warned off from Tylenol. What did she do? She took Aspirin Free Anacin 3. When she said that all the blood went to my feet, because that was just another way of saying Tylenol. She didn’t read the label. So be careful.
I miss that place… Can’t wait to get back and meet your bride!
Jeff,
Thanks for the words, and yes, my posts will be geared towards cruising once again :)
Arch,
good luck with the refit!!!
Tim,
I really try not to take anything. This isn’t long term (I hope). Ive read online that rotorcuff damage takes a while to heal. I’m focusing on my yoga again, and looking for natural avenues to pain. I’m also trying to give my shoulders a chance to heal but I always find myself hoisting a sail or dinghy, or doing something hard on the shoulders. It seems to be connected to an unhappy and tense muscle leading to the base of my neck which I hit with my portable TENS unit when it gets bad. I’m sure some good easy living will go far.
Buddy,
I found some really nice new anchorages, you should come for a visit. And your funny with the “bride” comment. Neither one of us is into the religious or legal aspects of “marriage” but you never know ?
Stevex
Taking it easy for a few more days but scripting out some of the film. I’ll be drawing a connection between minimalism and the Kuna as they are the ultimate minimalists. They live small with large smiles !!!
YodaMouse I think your right about leading up to this journey.
Thnks Chuck.
We got hit with a really large squall last night lots of rain & sky fire. We caught a lot of water :) the dinghy was full this morning which means laundry day :)
Alex and Carla,
I can tell in this post that you arriving in the islands have been a Huge de-stressor for you. Peace, Love and Coconuts back at ya!
Dave
Glad you finaly posted. Been jones N’ for a hit of project bluesphere since you guys left Linton. Super stoked for you both, happy for your safe passage. I like where your at in your head. Enjoy the peace you have found through hard work and sacrifice. I think for a lot of us our own “Private Paradise” is so close. Slowing down is the essiential ingredient. As I wonder in search of my “Private Paradise” your perspective is grounding. Thank You.
I look forward to reading of adventures to come.
Scotty
PS. You thinking of doing any charters while in The San Blas??
Scott,
Charter would be welcome. We have Carla’s brother comming for 10 days on the 7th, but after that for sure.
Cheers
Well… WELCOME HOME! Good to see you there. Hey, I’ve got some pain ideas: Traumeel Cream. It’s homeopathic ointment and Anti-inflammatory, analgesic. Pretty safe stuff and it’s been helping my muscle pain and nerve pain. They also make a tablet that you melt under you tongue. It works like any other homeopathic treatment. You don’t really notice a change and then after a while, you also notice that the pain is not as bad. MUCH BETTER ON YOU BODY.
Yep. Boats hurt bodies. How well I know. And I have to eat a couple of Advil now and then to get my day started too. But most of the time I can control the pains with this natural stuff.
I know this may be a stupid question, but do you have a mailing address where I can send some of this stuff to you? There’s also a product called Formula 303 that is a muscle relaxant that is basically Valerian Root, Passiflora and magnesium Carbonate. Pretty pure stuff but takes the edge off of the muscle tension which translates to less pain.
I have a cocktail in every once in a while of 3 Advil and 2 303’s. Gives me a chance to be pain free for a while.
So use email or Skype if you want to shoot me an address and I’ll send you some stuff.
Anyway, I was really just writing to welcome you two home. You are comfy there and you connect with the place, people and life style. Drop two big anchors and stay a while.
My best to Carla… Enjoy every precious moment!
Capt. Paul
s/v Panacea
Capt. Paul
I will get you an address for sure :)
It is nice to be here and I really do feel like I’m home, it’s been far too long.
I only need to drop one anchor my 80lb Manson Supreme has never let me down. When i drop the hook, I really drop the HOOK if you know what I mean :)
Rainy grey day today. Nice for reading and chilln’
Peace, love, and Kuna Yala
Greta to hear that you 2 are having fun in Guna Yala
We had a crazy sailing from Puerto Lindo to Bocas
All great over here… spent 2 nights around Bocas town and now we found our place… 6 miles from the city… clear water, empty ancorage and beautiful place.
Miss u guys
Take care
Mane and Rafa
Mane & Raffa,
Miss you guys too, man it’s nice here.Carla and I met a nice couple on a cat from Argentina, we’ve been spending some time together. Went spear fishing today and I shot a nice snapper and lion fish.
Full moon tonight. Carla’s inside blending up a batch of coconut milk and I’m taking I’n the full moon. Jose Gonzalez on the iPod, really nice music. He’s a musician that was exiled from Argentina and now lives I’n sweeden, might want to download some tunes.
Life is uber large these days.
Peace.
Carla and I broke out our guitars last night and came up with the “sail far and live slowly” theme song, it’s actually pretty good.
We have decided our category of cruisers, we are sea hippies ;)
Sail far and live slowly!
….internet in the san blas? ….things are a changing…i heard the area near the colombia boarder is beautiful, but not for newbys…kinda off the beaten path…..enjoy…..G