I’m really having to force myself to write today, I’m in 100% decompression mode.
How is it I have been so close (40 miles) to my own private paradise for so long, and I’m only arriving just now? I find myself asking this question many times throughout the day as I gaze at the surf and pristine white sand islands.
The weeks before departing to the San Blas were a push for sure. It seemed everything I touched needed to be fixed, tuned, tweaked, rigged, or patched.
The day we left the Linton anchorage was a bit stressful. We planned on leaving in the morning after we finished filling the water tanks. Splendid took an enormous amount of water never finding her fill. Why is the bilge pump going off? I asked myself as I was putting in another 5 gallon jug of water in her tank.
I took everything out of the lazerette only to find that I had drilled 6 holes in the top of the port water tank and it was leaking everywhere. I had just pulled out the little Kubota engine, GOD I hate that thing, only to realize that when I mounted it I did so atop the fiberglass water tank, ARRRGGGGG! The top of the tank and floor of the lazerette are seamless. Within 20 minutes I had ground around the 6 holes and patched them with 3 layers of fiberglass. After stowing everything back in the lazerette it was finally time to go a few hours later with the itch of fiberglass dust on my skin.
I started the engine, walked to the bow, removed the snubber, and placed the anchor chain in the gypsy. At last I thought as the smile shined from my lips, Carla smirking at my side.
I stepped on the windlass button and silence, no joy! I wanted to cry in the 90 degree heat of the day. Instead I grabbed my tools and fixed the windlass (corrosion on the ground connection). An hour later the anchor was up and we made the big 4 mile trip to Isla Grande.
Even though our journey only took us a few miles away our hearts were elated and the smell of travel was in the air. This was a big day for the two of us. For me, I was finally setting sail again after an extended refit, and Carla was setting sail for the first time.
After dinner we turned in at about 8pm knowing we were getting up at 4:30.
I couldn’t sleep well as every system on the boat was taking my sleep and occupying my thoughts.
I had many problems with my fuel system the last time I was out. For one I had bad fuel in the tanks (from Colombia), secondly I found a hair-line crack in the top of my racor filter, and lastly I had some kinks in my fuel lines. I had fixed everything and replaced all my fuel lines, but would my motor let me down the next day? I knew we didn’t have much wind and the following day would be a 8-10 hour motorboat ride.
Carla and I were up before the sun making breakfast, stowing, and raising the main. When the light first warmed the sky I heaved anchor and set out for our trip to the Chichime anchorage in Western Kuna Yala (San Blas).
The day was good and Carla was really enjoying the trip. I accidentally caught a shark (2-3’) which got away with one of my good lures, argggg.
We had a few knots of breeze behind us and we were doing about 4.5 knots under power and pulling the dinghy.
I was really excited near the end of our trip when we only had 15 miles to go. I could see Chichime in the distance along with some dark clouds.
Well, during these last 15 miles of our trip we had 20+ knot head winds, 6’ seas, and a strong opposing current. Splendid got knocked back to making a knot, maybe two. I was running my good old Perkins a bit hard, and under a heavy load. It seemed to me on my trip down from the states that it liked to conk-out at exactly the worst moment. Mostly due to the hairline crack in the racor filter which bled air into the system.
I know you might think I’m mad but I communicate with my boats. In the back of my head I could hear Splendid saying “ Don’t stress it, I just want to prove to you that all your work on me paid off, run the engine hard, I wont let you down, you’ll see”
I was thinking I should cut the engine and put to sea on a long tack to fight the headwind and current. This would put me in Chichime long after the sun had set on a moonless night. Two boats have been lost entering Chichime at night in the last year. There is only one small entrance between the reef but I know it well, I also have an accurate track on my GPS so I felt confident I wouldn’t have any issues.
But if I really push the engine hard into the sea for 3-4 hours, and it does well, I’ll regain my confidence in the motor. I really want renewed confidence in my motor and I should listen to the little voice inside my head so I throttled up. The spray came over the bow and we were making a solid 2.5 – 3.0 knots with 12 miles to go.
Well Splendid was right and I once again have confidence in my motor. We pulled into Chichime with an hour of sun left in the sky.
Carla was a bit disappointed with Chichime. She thought it was beautiful but crowded, and it was. The backpacker boats like to congregate there and the vibe is a bit off. The following morning we took off for the Eastern Lemons (Island group), which were only a few miles away. What a peaceful place I found to drop the hook. There was another boat anchored about a half-mile away and another 10 or so over a mile away. The water was turquoise blue, calm, and we were protected from the sea by a barrier reef. The sound of silence and crashing waves dominated our days.
I wasn’t so wild about the seabed as the sand was tainted with seagrass. We had a large squall roll through one night and I was awake for about an hour watching the GPS but the anchor held well.
How is it I have been so close (40 miles) to my own private paradise for so long, and I’m only arriving just now? I ask myself this question once again.
I don’t really know the answer and all I tell myself is it was meant to be. Splendid is a very different boat from the one I bought and I must say I’m pleased with my work. My shoulders are shot and I often need to take a handful of Tylenol to start the day, but it was all worth it. Not to mention I found Carla on the way back from the big smoke (city).
I’m such a different man than the last time I was here on Namaste, and I have such a different boat. I’m not single-handing, and my head is in a very different place. I’m also older and a more knowledgeable, and capable, sailor.
I write to you today from exactly where I want to be in the world. And I’m not talking about a coordinate, destination, anchorage, island, or country. I’m where I need to be in my head.
I fought & worked so hard to have a little ship I could call home, a place where I could stand up in the galley, sprawl in my bed, and be dry in the cockpit. I could never have afforded such a boat without so many years of dragging my ass over the coals, and I’m so happy I did. Had I known the amount of work Splendid would demand I never would have bought her. I would have stayed in my little Namaste and traveled the world in my tiny, match-box home. I would have been happy but on a very different path. I must say all my work has been worth it. I still have a lot to do, but having my blood, sweat, and tears embedded in the decks beneath my feet feel good.
We will be exploring this magnificent place for a while. I have no idea for how long or which way the wind will blow. But I know it will blow in the right direction.
How is it I have been so close (40 miles) to my own private paradise for so long, and I’m only arriving just now?
All I can say is I finally feel I’m arriving home. Kuna Yala is the most magnificent place I’ve seen. It’s not for everyone. Many people prefer Bocas Del Torro, the BVI’s, Bahamas or other destinations that offer restaurants, hotels, and jet skis. For me the peace of living amongst indigenous people with nothing ashore but a straw hut, coconuts, and sand suits me just fine. Carla seems to feel the same.
We tried moving to the Western Lemon anchorage yesterday but it was overcrowded with boats anchored on top of each other. I will never understand why so many sailors feel the need to be so “connected” with each other. Carla and I motored around the anchorage for twenty minutes and decided to move on. There is a bar with satellite internet and TV ashore, as well as many moorings in the anchorage. I suppose this is what attracts so many boaters. I saw the boat that slammed into Splendid (dragging) last year tied up to a mooring.
We found a nice place to anchor in a different part of the Eastern Lemons, and that is where we sit now.
Carla’s brother and wife arrive on the 7th and we will have guests for 10 days. It will be nice to meet some of Carla’s family.
How is it I have been so close (40 miles) to my own private paradise for so long, and I’m only arriving just now?
I found the answer, why ask why?
Where will we end up tomorrow?
Peace, Love, and Kuna Yala!!!
-alex
You can see our journey on my Spot Page:
fms.ws/816Eq/9.57209N/78.85156W
Use this link, as my SPOT page is broken.